As a frequent visitor to Dubai, I find myself regularly defending the city.

I’ve written about its varied food scene, desert scenery and local markets — urging travellers to reconsider all they think they know about what is often described as a ‘soulless’ and ‘superficial’ destination.

And so when I headed to Dubai earlier this year, there was one place at the of top my must-visit list, not least to prove yet again that there’s more to this famous emirate than meets the eye.

Located 90 minutes southeast of the city lies Hatta, nicknamed ‘the highlands of Dubai’. Formerly an Omani territory, the same Hajar Mountains that hug Hatta dam, also stretch into Oman. The place started life as a farming village, and is one of the oldest preserved heritage areas in the UAE.

When I first visited Hatta in the late 90s, it felt like the middle-of-nowhere. An ill-fated trip that involved a dead car battery and a mountain rescue made it feel all the more isolated.

But Hatta is enjoying a glow-up, with Dubai officials positioning it as a major tourist attraction — and it’s easy to see why it’s beloved by locals and tourists alike.

Things to do in Hatta

Hatta dam is perhaps the most popular spot for tourists. You can hire kayaks or a variety of different boats, depending on the size of your party (and how much effort you want to put in).

With the Emirati sun beating down, my group and I opted for a donut boat, which had an awning for shade and plenty of room for four adults and one child — we could have fitted more. For the equivalent of £60, we floated around the beautiful dam, taking in the stunning scenery for an hour.

While I was happy to relax on the water, there’s plenty for those looking for adventure. Bikes can be rented to explore the mountains, and there are myriad hiking trails.

The newly opened Aerial Adventure Park has the UAE’s only 12m ‘giant swing’, three zip-line experiences, and a bag jump where you free-fall onto a giant crash bag. There are different packages on offer depending which attraction you choose to swing, jump or hurl yourself off from.

Back on solid ground, a trip to Hatta Honeybee Garden and Discovery Centre is another fun excursion. The largest producer of honey in the UAE, it’s home to 4,000 bee colonies, which produce 20 tonnes of honey per season. Admission is just £10, and guests can don a beekeeping suit to get up close and personal with the buzzing creatures.

For animals that don’t sting, head to The Camel Farm, located inside the Al Marmoom Conservation Reserve (general admission is just £6). As well as a chance to ride the camels or try camel hugging therapy, you’ll also see other desert creatures, including gazelles, oryxes, and desert foxes.

And history buffs can learn all about Hatta’s past at the Hatta Heritage Village, and climb the towers of its centrepiece, Hatta Fort, built in 1896, for panoramic views of the region.

Where to eat in Hatta

Al Hajarain restaurant on the edge of Hatta’s heritage village is a top-rated spot, for good reason.

Opt for a seat outside under the awnings for a cool al fresco meal. The vibes here are friendly and laid-back with families and couples alike enjoying traditional Arabic fayre.

When in Dubai, you can’t go wrong with ordering a mixed grill, and the arayes here (a kind of meat-stuffed crispy pita) were particularly good. Sides of hummus and fattoush are also a must, and one of my favourite things to eat when I’m in the UAE.

Prices were reasonable too. Two mixed grills for £30 each were more than enough for five adults and one child (we had leftovers).

The restaurant was dry, but there’s fresh lemon mint juice on the menu (about £3) to quench your thirst.

How to get to Hatta from Dubai

For those staying in Dubai, getting to Hatta takes a bit of effort. If you’re willing to brave the city’s roads, you can hire a car and make the scenic 90-minute drive. Alternatively, you can take the Hatta Express bus.

The Dubai Roads and Transport Authority (RTA) runs a shuttle from Dubai Mall to the Hatta Bus station for only 25AED (£5).

The journey takes an hour and 15 minutes, and operates every two hours from 7am to 7pm. You can get the same bus back, with the last leaving Hatta at 7pm.

The future of Hatta

In 2021, Sheikh Mohammed announced plans to transform Hatta into a major tourist destination.

Already, there have been dramatic changes. A Hollywood-style Hatta sign now sits on the Hajar Mountains, and what was once a make-shift carpark has been paved over to make way for a small shopping area, with empty buildings awaiting their retailers.

A huge waterfall rolls down the hillside against the world’s largest mosaic — an image of Dubai’s founding fathers. Future plans include a small beach and a mountain railway, and a new cable car route will offer tourists a unique way to view the area.

For those keen to explore an untouched gem, you might want to book your trip to Hatta now. But it’s no surprise that this beautiful area is finally getting the recognition it deserves.

Where to stay in Hatta

If you’re not content with a day trip to the region, book a stay at JA Hatta Fort, Dubai’s only mountain resort.

Perfect for adventurers, the hotel can arrange activities for you in Hatta, including kayaking and mountain biking.

There’s an adult-only pool, but it’s family-friendly too, with large grounds perfect for an evening stroll — you can spot some of the hotel’s resident tortoises and rabbits too.

It’s also pet friendly, and the hotel will provide food and water bowls for your furry friends should you wish to bring them along.

The rooms are spacious and cosy, with a natural aesthetic: think beamed ceilings and wooden accents. Soak up the sun on your balcony, and enjoy a delicious breakfast outside at Café Gazebo, which has panoramic views of the mountains. There’s also a spa when you need a well-earned break from being outdoorsy.

Low season (June – September) rates start from £75, while high season rates (January – June and September – December) start from £150.

For more information visit their website.

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The crowd gathers in speedos, budgie smugglers, and rainbow bikinis as the progress flag is raised over Bondi Beach.

It’s an annual tradition – the unofficial beginning of Mardi Gras weekend – for the Sydney LGBT+ swim club to take an early morning dip in the rolling surf of the Pacific.

We’re flanked on either side by lifeguards with rainbow flags painted on their surfboards – a welcome safety measure, though it doesn’t feel needed because most of the group don’t even bother to swim.

They’re too preoccupied with splashing one another and sharing the juiciest of last night’s gossip. I realise the point of this isn’t to fit in a morning workout, but rather an opportunity for queer people to socialise in a way that doesn’t revolve around alcohol or drugs.

For context, this wasn’t my first Mardi Gras. I’d come during the infamous Pride celebrations in 2023. That year Sydney had been chosen to host World Pride, so everything was bigger and better, pride at its most superlative. And, like many others, my alcohol consumption had been excessive, to say the least.

That year went down in gay history books as one of the most chaotic Prides any of us had ever experienced. The parties went back to back, for weeks, and it felt like nobody came up for air.

Canadian TikToker Chris Zou went viral for asking the question we were all thinking. ‘When the f*ck do these people sleep?’

This time, however, I wanted something different. I’m currently on a journey to visit Pride events across all seven continents, but I’m also on a personal journey of sobriety.

Having recently hit the 18-month mark, I’ve been spending a lot of time reevaluating my relationship with queer spaces.

For gay men in particular, substance use has become ingrained into our community. I don’t shy away from bars or clubs, but sometimes it can be difficult to connect when it feels like you’re the only one not in line for the bar or the toilet cubicle.

Coming to Sydney I was worried about ‘being the sober one’, but bobbing up and down in the sea with a hundred-or-so fellow swim enthusiasts puts us all on the same level.

Small talk gives way to meaningful conversation, and I realise there’s more to the Harbour City’s LGBT+ community than I’d originally thought. Yes, they know how to throw a legendary party, but it turns out they know how to build a tight-knit community too.

‘These community groups are vital,’ Jeremy James from North Bondi Surf Life Saving Club, tells Metro. ‘They provide spaces where we can find each other and build connections.

‘Just a few decades ago, Bondi was known for sustained violent acts against our community. Today, this event symbolizes the progress we’ve made and the unwavering strength of our community.’

It’s hard to imagine that this was a place once known for violence, but a memorial now stands here as a reminder of what took place.

Between the 1970s and 1990s, LGBT+ people were systematically targeted, with some allegedly being thrown from the cliffs.

Today, however, the cliffs of Bondi have been reclaimed as a place of love and acceptance. Lesbian influencers Gabi and Shanna (@27travels) got married here during World Pride, sending a powerful message that love will always win. The hoisting of the Pride flag above the swim club sends the same message.

This defiance can be felt everywhere across the Eastern Suburbs. At Fair Day – a community-driven Mardi Gras event – I’m overwhelmed by options for LGBT+ sports clubs. Row upon row of different societies are recruiting new members. With everything from boxing to dragon boat racing, it feels like there’s a club for everyone.

I explain that I have zero hand-eye coordination – I was always that queer kid who was picked last for PE – but I get the same answer at every turn: regardless of ability, everyone is welcome.

Against my better judgment, I have my arm twisted into attending the Big Gay Ice Bath Bonanza, an LGBT+ event focused on mental health. I regret my willingness as we gather on the sand before the sun has even risen. It’s already cold on the beach at this hour, and as I watch the baths being loaded with generous buckets of ice, I wonder what the hell I’ve signed up for.

But after ice-breakers and sunrise breathwork, the pieces click into place. ‘Events like these are important to give LGBT+ people a space to connect and build friendships beyond the party scene,’ Nick White – gay men’s coach and founder of the Happy Human Project – explains.

‘In a community where mental health struggles are common, these experiences help us feel stronger, more present, and seen.’

These words resonate as I plunge into the icy waters, laughing and shrieking alongside my fellow queers as if I’ve known them for years. I came here expecting a test of endurance, instead, I found a space where vulnerability was not just encouraged, but celebrated. Sometimes getting out of our comfort zones is the fastest way to new friends.

If ice baths and sports clubs aren’t your thing, however, there’s something for just about everyone.

There’s an LGBT+ dog pageant, a queer fashion show, and – perhaps most importantly – an LGBT+ prom for queer youth. That’s something that resonates with me personally; when I was a queer kid, I skipped prom because I didn’t feel free to be myself.

Sydney goes above and beyond to give everyone this freedom, and I think that’s what draws so many from overseas. Booking.com’s research shows that 51% of LGBT+ people consider how accepting a place is before booking a trip, and by the sheer number of queer tourists I meet, I think it’s clear that the city’s reputation proceeds it.

There’s a diverse offering of events for every member of the community too – there’s the Paradiso Pool Party for those who want to dance in their speedos, and the Kaftana Pool Party for those who prefer to cover up.

There’s the Hot Trans Summer boat party; the Ultra Violet party for queer women; and the renowned Sissy Ball, the largest vogue ball in the southern hemisphere, run by and for the trans community and QPOC.

It’s an opportunity for marginalised voices to be heard, and Kianna Oricci – the ball’s curator – uses her time on stage to educate: ‘This is a learning opportunity for everyone, to know how to protect us – trans women of colour – to make sure we are flourishing in whatever we’re doing, and that we have support from the wider community.’

Her speech is met with thunderous applause. It’s important to remember that seeking support from allies is how Sydney’s celebrations originally began. In 1978, queer activists came together to plan a protest, but knowing they didn’t want things to turn violent, they decided to guise the demonstration as a giant street party instead.

Sydney Mardi Gras was born, and almost 50 years later, it’s one of the biggest festivals in the world. The festivities are broadcast live on national TV – something unheard of for a Pride parade – and as such, they put on a show unrivalled anywhere else.

As the sun sets over Sydney, the city is transformed by the tidal wave of energy that is Mardi Gras after dark. A dancing shark – made from recycled materials – sashays down the street wielding pom poms. There’s choreography and pyrotechnics, and the march of the queer librarians who furiously shush the cheering crowd.

There are light-up costumes, reems of confetti, and more speedos than seems sensible. ‘Is Pride really not like this everywhere?’ a local lesbian asks me as a rainbow firework explodes overhead, beautifully unaware of how special and unique this celebration truly is.

By the time I’m deep into the after-party, all worries of ‘being the sober one’ have escaped me. As Leland brings out queer royalty like Troye Sivan and Trixie Matel, dripping with sweat, I dance alongside friends and strangers alike.

There’s no doubt that Sydney Mardi Gras knows how to throw a party, but if you look beneath the surface, you’ll also find one of the most welcoming (and sober-friendly, if you want that) communities in the world.

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As I drove from Ambleside to Keswick, along the stunningly picturesque A591, I turned to my wife and said: ‘I’d always assumed those Victorians were exaggerating, but the Lake District actually does look like their paintings.’

Along with our 12-year-old twin boys, we were in a huge motorhome, embarking on a whistle-stop four-day tour of the Lakes.

As Metro’s cartoonist, I had my supplies in tow, ready for inspiration to strike, and so far, we’d spent most of our time with our mouths open, pointing at things in amazement.

I’d been lent this house-on wheels, named Precious, by the motorhome rental company Camplify (think AirBnB for motorhomes). We picked it up from the owner in Blackpool, and set off.

I’d always wanted to play around in a motorhome. It seemed to me that you got the best of both worlds: the luxury of not actually camping, while simultaneously camping.

This became apparent when were parked in a windy field, surrounded by people in flapping tents trying to light barbecues. Meanwhile, I had a chicken roasting in the oven and remembered I needed to refill the ice trays for the evening cocktails.

And, as an artist, the Lake District is a delight.

The air is clear and the light is so vivid, the colours travel further. Even things that normally have a rigid man made form, like fences walls and houses, tend to lounge and bend and sway, blending visually into their natural surroundings. There isn’t a straight line for miles. 

The merits of a motorhome

We started, as most people do, at Lake Windermere, at Bowness-on-Windermere Camping and Caravanning site (£96 for a hardstanding pitch with electrics), a friendly motorhome site right next to the water.

A top tip is to join the Camping and Caravanning Club as it halves the cost of many pitches — memberships start from £53.

The motorhome, a 7.5 metre Bailey Autograph, was exceptionally comfortable and the layout was instinctive. My wife and I slept in the main room in a large double bed and the kids shared the ‘living room’ double. 

A motorhome is not to be confused with a campervan. In a motorhome there are rooms, head height, an oven, a loo and shower. The kids loved it as it made the actual travelling part of a road trip fun — they could sit at the table and play games as we drove.

Eating costs were also reduced, as we cooked and ate in the motorhome, and fuel consumption was surprisingly reasonable. The motorhome came with a full tank, and we only used a quarter of it.

The prices of motorhomes can reach similar to small houses but renting is a great way to either try before you buy (or simply always stick to renting).

Things to do in Windemere in the Lake District

I’d just finished reading Swallows and Amazons by Arthur Ransom as a night time story to my twin boys, so we were all well versed in the topography and general feel of Windemere.

We span round the Windermere Jetty Museum (£12 for adults and £6 for kids) with its mixture of old and nearly new. The old being the displayed motorboats, steam launches, sailing yachts and vintage speed boats. The nearly new being a working boat yard and wharf, where restorers were replacing the carvel planking on a beautiful old pleasure cruiser.

Next, was a cruise up and down the lake. 

We hopped on board the Teal (£56 for our family of four), a 142ft restored ferry that would take us from Bowness-on-Windemere, to Fell Foot, a National Trust country park where there was a steam train and an aquarium. And most importantly, Teal had a licensed bar.

As we sailed, it was clear that Windermere is split demographically in two. On the east side there are the towns, campsites, motorhomes and tourist attractions. On the west side there is the calm of the rich. Rocky outcrops with twisted oaks line the banks.

Occasionally an immaculate lawn appeared and then, shyly peeking from behind the cloud of pruned trees, a huge gothic mansion comes into view. Paths leading up from boat houses give only hints of habitation.

We pointed at fish in the aquarium for an hour then went to have lunch in the gardens of the Lakeside Hotel and Spa.

Here influencers in grey flannel tracksuits took pictures of themselves in the way of nice views and the waiters all wore white gloves. By the water’s edge angelic looking children threw handfuls of gravel at mallard ducks.

But I’d highly recommend the food. We ate huge Caesar salads and reconstructed home made fish finger sandwiches. I paired my lunch with an excellent flinty white Burgundy from their cellars. 

The sun came out and the lawns shone. It struck me that most of the activities here are still those that the Victorians enjoyed: pleasure boating, steam trains, aquariums and rowing boats. Simple gentle pursuits that cast one away from modern life.

Getting from Windermere to Ambleside

From Windermere we travelled north, past the pretty town of Ambleside through the impossibly stunning cliff sided valleys and high up to Castlerigg farm campsite (£45 per night for a hardstanding pitch with electrics), on the side of a hill overlooking Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite lake.

Up high the wind blew hard, and the shadows of the scudding clouds tracked over the contours of the fells, making the view constantly changing.

As the sun finally dipped below the horizon, there was a banging of pans and clapping applause from the kids as if a great film had concluded.

We’d promised ourselves a visit to the woods next morning so, without the need to pack up, yet another advantage of the motorhome, we made our way due south to a campsite that was suggested to us by trusted friends.

The Kendall Club campsite (£60.70 for a hardstanding pitch with electrics) is situated in the middle of a wood that used to house New Sedgwick Gunpowder Works, where gunpowder was made from 1857 to 1935.

As a result, the woods themselves, dappled and lofty, were alive with birdsong and full of ancient crumbling buildings, man made waterways and wooden bridges.

While exploring and swimming along the tumbling river, teeming with fish, and foaming with waterfalls, we encountered blue flashes of kingfishers and a pair of rare white throated dippers.

The friends we met along the way

Back at camp we met Pat and Dave, fellow motorhomers who, over a few bottles of cheap plonk and Swan Blonde, (the excellent local ale) explained the intricacies of life in a vehicle.

Their advice? Don’t squander freedom when holidaying by motorhome. There’s no need to be rigid with your own itinerary.

The whole point is you can rethink each new day’s travel plan as it comes, especially if you’re not heading to a pre-booked campsite.  

Pat and Dave were just two of the many friendly motorhomers we met on a trip. And, whenever I sat down to sketch I was usually approached by inquisitive holidaymakers who often recognised my work.

On the final day we sadly parted ways with the now much loved motorhome, and pondered on our brief but wonder filled excursion in one of the most stunning areas the British Isles has to offer.

Some say jet lag is a state of mind, while others spend their long-haul holidays falling asleep at noon and asking: ‘But what time is it, really?’

It’s the only downside to seeing the world, and travellers have spent decades trying to avoid it.

Some drink copious cups of coffee, or eat lots of bananas (yes, really, it’s the potassium). Others take sleeping pills, but these can be addictive, and have varying degrees of success.

So, when I flew more than 10,500 miles from London to Sydney, I assumed I would have to accept my fate – that is, until an Australian colleague recommended the app Timeshifter and, spoiler, it changed my life.

How does the Timeshifter app work?

Timeshifter is the brainchild of tech entrepreneurs Mickey Beyer-Clausen and Jacob Ravn, along with Dr Steven W Lockley, an expert in circadian rhythms who supports NASA astronaut training.

Your circadian rhythm is better known as your body clock, and when you cross time zones, this gets disrupted.

According to Timeshifter, the app combines ‘the only elements shown to reset the circadian clock’, (light-dark exposure and melatonin) along with those that ‘alleviate the symptoms’ (light, melatonin, caffeine and naps).

The concept is simple. You put in your flight date and time, and a schedule is created for you. Your first plan is free, then it’s $9.99 (£7.97) per plan or
a $24.99 (£19.94) subscription which offers unlimited plans for a year.

You’ll be told when to sleep, take naps, get (or avoid) light exposure, and when to drink coffee or chug supplements.

Given that melatonin is prescription-only in the UK, I wouldn’t be taking it – but you can give Timeshifter this info, and your schedule is adjusted accordingly.

Putting Timeshifter to the test

I was due to fly at 9am on a Sunday, so I was surprised when my schedule started on the Friday before. I was instructed to be up by 7am, and go to bed before 10pm.

On the Saturday, those timings shifted by an hour, so I was up at 6am (on a Saturday), and in bed for 9pm.

Then came the day of my flight, where I had to set my alarm for 3am. This felt cruel, given I didn’t need to leave for the airport until 5.30am.

Timeshifter also told me to get straight on the caffeine, which at this point was pretty much a necessity.

I also needed light, but, erm, it was dark. So I switched on every light in my flat and hoped that would have the same effect.

Things started to get a bit weird when I boarded my flight at 9am. By this time I wasn’t allowed to have caffeine, while my fellow passengers were on the espressos.

However, I trusted the process, and when it was time to go to sleep at 3pm London time, I actually felt pretty snoozy.

Timeshifter told me to sleep for an hour before arriving in Doha at 4pm UK time, or 6pm local time. I should have slept at the airport, but the anxious part of me was too scared about missing the connecting flight, so I stayed awake.

Two hours later (8pm in Doha) I was on another plane (it would be a mammoth 14-hour journey), and it was time to go back to sleep. Again, this is easier said than done; I had some food and watched an hour or so of Ocean’s 11 before finally dozing off.

I’ll admit, the military schedule adds a level of pressure that doesn’t make relaxing easy. But, I stuck to it as best I could, and was only ever about an hour or so out of my plan.

I had to set an alarm to wake up after six hours, and, as under orders from Timeshifter, start pounding the caffeine. Again, this felt a bit counter-intuitive. It was the dead of night in both the UK and Doha, and almost all my fellow passengers were sleeping.

Still, I did as I was told, and watched Oceans 8 and 12 before my final scheduled nap six hours later (8am in Doha). By this stage, I honestly had no idea what time it was, so I was grateful to have Timeshifter making decisions for me.

After an hour, I was waking as the plane started to descend, and it was 5pm in Sydney. And, somehow, I felt… fine?

The verdict

Emerging from a 14-hour flight, I was definitely giving Andy Dufresne as he escaped from Shawshank. But while I might have had cabin fever, and a crick in my neck, I genuinely wasn’t tired.

At the hotel, I ate dinner without falling asleep in my pasta, and then, it was time for bed.

As we walked back to our hotel rooms, my friends commented that they were wide awake, given it was morning back in the UK, but I was more than ready for lights out.

How did I sleep? Like a log.

The following morning, my fellow travellers commented on their eventful nights. One even got up at 3am, and took a ferry around Sydney Harbour at sunrise. Meanwhile, I was sleeping soundly.

While others spent the next few days groaning and popping sleeping pills, I was feeling pretty smug about my Timeshifter experience.

Since then, I’ve been raving about it anyone that will listen. If you’re travelling long haul, I can’t recommend it enough.

This article was originally published on February 18.

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When you think of Brazil, you picture colourful carnival goers, Christ the Redeemer towering over tourists, and sunbathers on Copacabana Beach.

I would bet that Belém, a city in the northwest of the country, doesn’t spring to mind.

It is perhaps a slightly more niche destination; a stop for river cruises heading into the Amazon rainforest, or for backpackers travelling around every corner of Brazil.

Known as the ‘gateway to the Amazon’ due to its location on the mouth of the Pará River, part of the Amazon River system, Belém is a large access point from which to enter the mighty forest.

It’s for this reason that it was chosen as the host city for COP30, as it ‘provides the world with a unique platform to discuss climate solutions’.

In November, leaders – and even British royalty – will descend on the city, and preparations are well underway, including the construction of a brand new city park, the size of 70 football pitches.

I headed to Belém last autumn to watch Brazilian DJ and producer, Alok, perform in a free-to-enter concert to launch the COP30 countdown and discover all this lesser-known city has to offer.

The Amazon gateway

Belém is a city of contrasts. I drove from the airport, in the developing outskirts, where a new arena is being built for COP30, to my hotel, the Radisson Hotel Maiorana, in the city centre.

It feels like any other bustling metropolis, and I’ll admit, I was a little underwhelmed.

That is, until I boarded a riverboat and headed into the Amazon delta.

There are plenty of tours that will take you into the rainforest, from hours spent on a boat floating along the river to full days of explorative journeys deeper into the Amazon.

At first, the place seems eerily silent as you glide along the river, but then, you tune into the subtle sounds of distant animals, and it begins to sink in that you’re in a place like no other.

A word of warning: do not forget your bug spray here; the mosquitos are relentless and once you’re in the forest, everything is open to the elements. There is no hiding inside.

We head to Combu Island, to a coca farm owned by Dona Nena. The self-taught businesswoman was born here, and her family have been producing artisan chocolates for generations.

Nena jokes that the forest is her ‘garden’, and for £10, she’ll guide you through the land, revealing how she learnt the art of chocolate-making from her mother, peeling the cocoa by hand until 2018, when technology thankfully took over.

The chocolate produced by Filha do Combu is something else: I’ll be thinking about the Brigadeiro – a truffle-like treat – forever.

The next day, we revisited the farm, and this time we were joined by Célia Xakriabá and Mapu Huni Kuin, who are both Indigenous tribe leaders.

Together, they performed a welcoming ceremony in front of a 200-year-old Kapok tree – a sacred tree for many Amazonian tribes.

They grow taller than any other in the forest and, as such, are believed to connect the ancestral and living worlds.

Phones were turned off as I stood in the roots of this awe-inspiring tree and listened to Célia’s rhythmic chanting. I was instructed to place my hands on the roots and make a wish: those who are pure of heart will have their desires granted.

Later, we dined on the quiet Combu Island, with bustling Belém visible across the river in the distance.

It was then that the heavens finally opened, and I can honestly say I have never experienced rain like it. It’s called a ‘rainforest’ for a reason.

We hid under the canvas cover and sipped coffee while watching the deluge, and half an hour later, the sun was shining again.

As night fell, light pollution was nonexistent. As I looked at the stars, the unfamiliar constellations reminding me how far I had travelled, it really brought home how important this place is, and how the world must strive to protect it.

A free party for 250,000

Alok’s free concert was thrown for the people of Belém to mark the one-year countdown to COP30, which the 33-year-old star is an ambassador for.

The excitement across the city was palpable as 250,000 people flooded into the venue; unusually taking place in the Mangueirão Olympic Stadium’s car park – rather than the stadium itself – due to the sheer size of the event.

Alok, who is ranked fourth best DJ in the world by DJ Mag, made a rockstar entrance, walking through the screaming crowd before climbing to the top of the pyramid, all broadcast on the huge four-sided stage.

Visually, the show was unmatched. The Hear Me Now hitmaker performed on a 360-degree platform at the top of a 10-story high stage which was kitted out with more than 2,000 LED panels.

Lasers, pyrotechnics, and fireworks punctuated the entire gig, which only served to hype up the thousands of fans who danced the night away.

Then there’s the 432 drones orchestrated by Flyworks Drone Show. Gasps erupted in the huge crowd as the sky lit up with spectacular designs from a gigantic tree to an Indigenous headdress.

At one point, he was joined on stage by a huge crowd of Indigenous artists who featured in the Future is Ancestral project, stunning the audience with a mix of rap and native songs. Alok’s performance never forgets its core message; we need to act now to save hidden gems like Belém. 

The DJ will be back in the city this November as part of the COP30 celebrations so if you’re planning to visit, this would be the perfect time.

Amazonian cuisine

As well as Dona Nena’s delicious chocolates, there are plenty of delicacies to try in Belém.

I doubt you’ll visit the city without sampling jambu, sometimes known as the toothache plant, a native herb that chefs in the region seem to include in almost every dish.

The unassuming leaf, which looks similar to spinach, but with a blossoming yellow flower, has an unusual side effect: numbness. Whether it’s a breadstick or a main meal, jambu is everywhere — so prepare to have a tingling tongue at all times.

I enjoyed the added kick to my meals but some of my unsuspecting friends who tried my souvenir jambu breadsticks haven’t been so keen.

While southern Brazil is known for its meat, Pará’s placement on the Amazon River delta means fresh seafood is abundant, and fresh fruit is also a must: tucumã, a sweet-tasting fruit often compared to mango, and taperebá, similar to passionfruit, were both delicious.

But the star of the show is açaí. The state of Pará produces around 90% of Brazil’s açaí, but it’s different to the fruit you’ll find in bowls at health food cafes in the UK. Here, it’s unsweetened and yoghurt and oats are nowhere to be seen, with locals opting for cassava flour or tapioca accompaniments instead.

Fresh açaí has a much earthier taste, with flavour notes more similar to matcha or tea. It’s still well worth a try, especially if you don’t have a sweet tooth.

The region’s biggest export is also at risk. A local guide explains that as the Amazon continues its fight for survival, açaí – and its profits – could become a distant memory.

Eating out in Belém is cheap, especially with the generous conversion from Brazilian Real to pounds, meaning an evening meal is unlikely to cost more than £30 per person.

I enjoyed a particularly spectacular meal at the Casa do Saulo Onze Janelas, with fish bigger than your face cooked to perfection. The tambaqui de banda is a must-have here – a freshwater fish roasted with plantain.

Even at the higher end of the price range, dishes were still budget-friendly at around £20 for a sharing plate for two.

More to see in Belém

The Amazon isn’t the only reason to visit Belém. For R$2 – which is less than 50p – you can visit Mangal das Garcas, a park home to hundreds of bird species with panoramic views of the city.

The bird sanctuary is stunning, with parrots, flamingos, and more. Locals tell me the spot is a favourite for peaceful lunch breaks within the bustling city.

From the viewing platform, you can notice the stark contrast between the developing skyscraper city and the natural world the Belenense are fighting to protect.

Elsewhere, the huge Ver o Peso market has everything from fresh fruit, souvenirs, jewellery and perfumes that make ‘people fall in love’, according to the enthusiastic traders. As tempting as that was, I decided to keep the fate of my love life in Hinge’s hands.

While I did eye up an Amazonian-style vase, I left having only purchased an adorable fridge magnet which looked like a tiny açaí basket.

Remember to haggle, and you can nab yourself a bargain.

Time to shine

As the host city for COP30, Belém has been granted a much-needed moment in the spotlight.

There’s so much potential here – a new modern city that merges eco-friendly developments with deep cultural traditions.

While Brazilian favourites like São Paulo and Rio might have mass appeal, Belém is a rewarding destination that’s not to be missed.

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I’d been digging into a pasta dish when people around me began gasping and rushing towards the exit. When people do this on a cruise ship, you start to worry. 

I hadn’t been paying much attention to the view as it was dark outside, and when you’re in the middle of the ocean at night, there’s really not too much to see — but while I wasn’t looking, a 200,000-year-old volcano had erupted.

We’d caught a glimpse of Mount Stromboli about an hour earlier, after a sailing through the Messina Strait, a narrow passage between Sicily and Southern Italy.

The volcano was a sight to behold, but everything had been calm.

Fast forward 60 minutes and as we’d looped back around the volcano, aka the ‘lighthouse of the Mediterranean’ and the situation had got rather more exciting.

Bright orange lava was now flowing, and every few minutes a cascade of fiery rocks spurted from the top, like a contained firework display.

I rushed with the crowds to the top deck of Holland America’s MS Oosterdam to get a better look. Awe-inspiring and ominous at the same time, the lava cast a sinister red glow over the homes on the island below.

I watched until Stromboli was a glimmering speck in the distance. This moment was just one of the many during my seven-day voyage that challenged everything I thought I knew about cruises.

Life on board Holland America’s MS Oosterdam

When you first board a cruise ship, there’s a mandatory safety video which includes information about the emergency alarm. I was not, however, expecting to hear it later that night, at 2am.

As a first time cruiser, I was feeling pretty nervous. Thankfully, Captain Kevin quickly assured us it was a false alarm — and I was soon fast asleep once more.

The rocky start did little to convince me that my week on a Mediterranean Marvels cruise from Athens to Civitavecchia in Italy, would be smooth sailing.

In particular, the idea of ‘sea days’, stuck on the ship with nowhere to go made me feel claustrophobic. But it immediately became clear I needn’t have worried — cruise ships are ginormous. 

Oosterdam has 10 different floors for public access, with several lower levels that are off limits to guests (rumour has it this is where you’ll find the holding cell for those who get themselves in trouble during the cruise, and the on board morgue). 

There are two swimming pools and two hot tubs, several bars and restaurants, a gym and spa, a library, a taco bar, a theatre, casino, shops, and a game room for kids. Food and drinks are available around the clock, and there’s always some kind of event or activity taking place.  

Even my room was bigger than I’d expected it to be. I’d naively had visions of a pokey cabin, with a tiny round porthole. But the room itself looked like most standard hotel rooms. There was a double bed, a two-seater sofa and desk, and an en-suite bathroom with a tub. I also had a balcony, boasting spectacular ocean views.

Bucket-list moments on Holland America’s MS Oosterdam

We stopped at some of Europe’s most popular destinations over the week-long trip, from Dubrovnik to Kotor, Corfu and Naples, but surprisingly, my favourite experiences all happened at sea.

Not only did I witness Mount Stromboli erupt, but as we cruised along the Adriatic, heading away from Montenegro, I got to enjoy another bucket-list moment.

After a long day exploring Kotor’s Old Town in baking 30C weather, I was in my room when I saw a flash of something out the corner of my eye.

Pausing by the balcony, seconds later a small dolphin jumped out of the water, arching out of the sea in a movement that I’d seen so many times on TV before, but never in real life.

It was followed by another one, and then another and suddenly I’d lost count of how many dolphins there were. I was squealing like a kid as I watched the creatures play in the wake of the ship.

As a foodie, there was also plenty of delicious treats to be found on Oosterdam.

I was thrilled to try the Morimoto by Sea pop-up restaurant on board in the Pinnacle Grill. This is an experience that happens at least once per trip on Holland America cruises and brings innovative dishes by the Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto, straight to your plate.  

I’m still thinking about the maple candied bacon. It was served with the strips pegged to a tiny rail, so they hung down, like clothes in a wardrobe. I’ve never had anything like it.  

Can organised fun on cruise ships actually be fun?

Perhaps one of the biggest surprises of the entire cruise was realising just how great ‘organised fun’ on board can actually can be.  

I’m a massive introvert, so not usually one to volunteer for team activities, but on the days we were at sea, I quickly came to realise that it was best to really ‘commit to the bit’.

I tried my hand at line-dancing (which featured more Justin Timberlake music than Jason Aldean), joined in with a bar crawl that involved a lot of twerking, mortifying games, and far too many shots, as well as playing a Mr & Mrs style couples quiz that proved my husband and I are definitely meant to be (duh). 

Speaking of my husband, he celebrated his 32nd birthday during the cruise and the Oosterdam staff went above and beyond to make it special. 

Colourful balloons were tied to our stateroom door, a bottle of prosecco and chocolate treats greeted us on the table inside and the two wonderful stewards assigned to our floor created the most whimsical display on our bed out of towels – folding the white fabric to create monkeys and a three-tier birthday cake.  

We were also served an actual birthday cake: a dreamy chocolate dessert.

Everyone in the restaurant sang happy birthday, before we rounded off the meal with a walk around the promenade deck, enjoying the moment and taking in our unique surroundings.  

Is cruising… cool?

Holland America’s Oosterdam completely challenged what I thought I knew about cruises. 

Would I go on another cruise in the future? Absolutely, yes.

There are is one caveat though. I’d look for an adults-only voyage, if only so I could swim in a pool where children weren’t shrieking and doing cannonballs 24/7.

If you’ve been tempted to go on a cruise, book it. You’ll eat more food than you’ve ever had in your life, try some weird and wonderful activities, meet people from all walks of life, and make incredible memories. And really, what more could you ask for from a holiday?

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As darkness spreads like a soft blanket across the sky, I step out of Helsinki Central Station and take a deep breath of what has been described as the cleanest air in Europe.

The February chill pricks my cheeks as I admire the elegant streets of the Finnish capital, a city of seasonal restaurants, world-class saunas and art nouveau architecture. There is much to smile about; after all, Finland was recently voted the happiest place on Earth for the eighth year in a row.

As a mobility-conscious travel writer, I’ve come to evaluate how this Scandi capital accommodates visitors with accessibility needs. Finland’s status as a beacon of progressive values has been called into question over the past year by its ruling rightwing coalition. Long hospital waits, soaring food prices and rising homelessness are only some of the issues facing Finnish society, just like much of Europe.

But Finland remains streets ahead when it comes to disability inclusion, with the country long touted as a world leader in accessible public spaces — a reputation I was here to examine firsthand.

And I found that Helsinki defies expectations. Part Nordic cool, part artistic haven, this is a city that reveals itself slowly and lingers in your mind, long after you leave.

Getting around Helsinki

Since losing the use of my leg following an illness in 1993, I have worn a full leg brace and walked with crutches.

Helsinki is a mostly flat, pedestrian-friendly city; almost all of the most popular attractions are within walking distance of the city’s top hotels.

But if you feel the need, the tram network is also an excellent and affordable way to explore; unlimited hop-on-hop-off passes cost €10 (£8.30) for 24 hours, or €15 (£12.45) for 48 hours.

Trams are accessible and free to wheelchair users. It is enshrined in Finnish law that disabled people should not be discriminated against because of their disability, so drop pavements and accessible entry points are catered for at the vast majority of shops, hotels and tourist sites.

Any public transport (taxi, tram and train) I made use of was easily accessible for me, but also for anyone with more challenging disabilities.

Where to stay in Helsinki

I’m staying at Sokos Solo Pier 4, a new hotel in the trendy Katajanokka district surrounded by the cobbled Market Square, the imposing Suomenlinna fortress and a smorgasbord of palaces and grandiose cathedrals.

Solo Sokos Pier 4 is new and was designed with accessibility in mind, with eight accessible and adapted rooms plus a fully accessible entrance for wheelchair users. The dining room, roof terrace, lifts and lobby are also accessible, but the hotel’s sauna is not.

Outside on Market Square, the cobbles are certainly a challenge for wheels, but you can navigate around this thanks to pavements on either side of the square.

Just a few minutes walk to downtown Helsinki, this neighbourhood has an island-like feel and has long been the haunt of Finnish luminaries, including Tove Jansson, creator of the beloved Moomins.

Although Finland has a reputation for being expensive, prices are now mostly aligned with what we pay in the UK. Hotels vary depending on quality. My lodgings at the four-star Sokos Solo Pier 4 Hotel start from €148 (£122.86) per night, while standard rooms at the top-rated five-star Hotel Kamp go from €290 (£240.60) a night.

Value can still be found in the Finnish capital, at places like the three-star Omena Hotel Lonnrotinkanu which offers comfortable doubles from €69 (£57.28) per night.

A coffee is a competitive €3 (£2.49) to €4 (£3.32 – cheaper than the UK!) whilst a beer will set you back slightly more, at around €8 (£7.47). Expect to pay somewhere between €40 and €60 for a mid-range evening meal.

Where to eat and drink in Helsinki

Eager to sample local cuisine, I headed for Toppa, a restaurant in a building designed by the prolific architect Alvar Aalto.

The menu brilliantly blends street food with fine-dining. Dishes like grilled octopus with sweet peppers (€16/£13.28), Mapo Szechuan tofu (€16/£13.28) and a sharing dish of Char Sieu pork (€42/£34.87) caused my dinner companions to sigh with contentment.

The terrace captures stunning views of the city skyline,best enjoyed with one of their signature cocktails. It is worth noting that Toppa has received mixed reviews online (3.9 on Google and just 3 stars on Trip Advisor). While some praise its innovative menu, others mention poor service and tiny portion sizes. I can only say that my experience was overwhelmingly positive.

A more intimate setting is Wellamo, a cosy Nordic-themed restaurant on the edge of the upscale Katajanokka neighbourhood.

Menus vary throughout the year to reflect seasonal ingredients. When I visited, four courses came in at €58 (£48.15) while six courses were €68 (£56.45). Highlights were the reindeer steak and burbot with Jerusalem artichoke.

The Happiness Factor

Finland has been named the happiest country in the world eight years running, and my interactions with locals made it easy to see why.

Such heights of contentment could stem from their national love of sauna, an integral part of Finnish culture. A Finn I shared a session with explained why he makes time for a sauna every morning before work.

‘It gets my blood flowing, opens your heart!’ he laughed as he poured water on the coals.

The country’s sauna obsession is real: there are an estimated three million saunas for just five and a half million Finns. That’s nearly half a sauna per person.

At Allas Sea Pool in the heart of Helsinki, I experienced this cultural cornerstone firsthand. For €18 (£14.94), you get two hours of pure relaxation, alternating between a warm sauna overlooking the Suomenlinna islands and a 27° outdoor pool.

The ultimate challenge is a near-freezing plunge pool that you immerse yourself in after a sweat session. Skin tingling, I emerged invigorated and with a better understanding of Finnish addiction to the sauna ritual.

Changing and washing facilities are wheelchair accessible, however the heated and cold pools and lower saunas are not. Wheelchair users would struggle with these aspects. Every sauna in Helsinki has different facilities, so it is important to speak with them ahead of your visit to ensure your needs can be met.

As with many things, Scandinavia was ahead of the curve with wellness.

Therma-tourism – the name for heat-seeking travelling – is on the rise and has been proven to have significant health benefits. From sweltering hot springs to luxurious hammams, heat opens the blood vessels and reduces stress, while cold plunges like the one I tried in Finland boost the immune system and trigger the release of feel-good hormones. It’s easy to understand why its popularity is increasing.

Things to do in Helsinki

Tueratastamo offers a fascinating glimpse into Helsinki’s urban culture.

This former abattoir has been transformed into a vibrant centre of food, art, and music. Despite its industrial past, the complex is now home to food markets from around the world, art galleries, coffee roasteries and live music venues. Its bohemian atmosphere rivals that of larger European capitals like Madrid and Prague. 

The nearby Kallio district, originally a working-class area of small apartments, today attracts an eclectic mix of students and artists. Bars such as Musta Kissa and Bar Molotow keep the neighbourhood alive with live music and entertainment well into the early hours.

Within a few hundred yards of Rautatientori Square, five remarkable galleries await. The Ateneum, particularly close to Finnish hearts, displays works from Paul Cezanne to Edvard Munch. Nearby, the Helsinki Art Museum (HAM) houses over 10,000 artworks.

Two contrasting cathedrals define the city’s skyline: the pristine Lutheran Helsinki Cathedral dominates Senate Square with its brilliant white façade and imposing green dome. In stark contrast, the crimson-bricked Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral sits atop a solid rock base, its gleaming gold onion domes mushrooming into the sky.

Is Helsinki safe?

Helsinki, and Finland in general, is exceptionally safe. Ranked the 11th safest country in the world (compared to the UK at 37th and the US at 131st), Helsinki invites fearless exploration.

While the streets can feel deserted in the winter, common sense is all that’s required.

Matt Dennis was a guest of Matka Travel Fair. He stayed at Sono Sokos Hotels Pier 4 and flew with Finn Air from Heathrow. One-way fares start from £215.

This article was originally published on February 25, 2025.

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I have long thought that children have no place in ‘adult’ spaces like luxury spa hotels.

I vowed to never become one of those entitled parents who force their offspring onto others.

Then our little one arrived and, 10 months in, I have never craved a white fluffy robe and a French 75 more. Motherhood, as they say, is a humbling thing.

Still, I had reservations about how our particular bundle of joy would cope on the type of holiday we enjoyed BC (before child). First to roll, first to crawl, last to sleep, our inquisitive little livewire was recently described as ‘spirited’ by the leader of a local baby group. Expecting him to go unnoticed in an opulent country home seemed not only unrealistic, but also unfair. 

Then, we heard of Calcot.

Set within 220 acres of rewilded Cotswolds countryside, Calcot Manor, located four miles from Tetbury, prides itself on offering luxury spa breaks that go beyond the basic requisites of ‘family-friendly’.

Guests are encouraged to ‘hit the parental pause button’, with childcare included in your stay and a ‘baby-listening service’ available in the evenings, so the grown-ups can enjoy dinner while the little ones sleep, with staff keeping an ear out for any disturbances. 

‘Sign us up!’ we thought, as two tired parents in need of some TLC. But as our trip grew closer, anxiety crept in.

Would I feel comfortable trusting strangers to look after the most precious thing in my world? And more importantly, would the most precious thing in my world enjoy his first holiday, or simply feel abandoned while Mummy got a facial? 

First impressions

Those butterflies began to settle from the moment we checked in. Our room, one of the Generous Family Suites, was kitted out with everything parents could possibly need, including a comfy cot, steriliser, bottle warmer, changing mat and nappy bin, all easily accessible but neatly tucked away. 

Our two bedrooms, two bathrooms and spacious living area were subtly baby-proofed, with round-edge furniture perfect for a 10-month-old explorer, without compromising on style.

Added details like baby shampoo, bath toys and a fun door sign with my son’s name spelled out in magnets reassured me that he was welcome at Calcot, not seen as an inconvenience.

This theme extended across the site, with high chairs, baby cutlery, bibs and baby change all available in the communal areas, but so tastefully blended in, I’m not sure child-free guests would have noticed them. 

The childcare

The childcare at Calcot is a major selling point for parents seeking some down time. You get up to four hours per day included in your stay, with additional baby sitting available at £25 per hour.

We booked our baby into The Playbarn – the Ofsted-registered crèche – for two hours each day, not wanting to throw him in at the deep end (he’d not yet started nursery). 

The staff, who take babies from newborn, greeted us with smiles and were entirely unfazed when I handed over formula, nappies and a huge bag of snacks ‘just in case’. The purpose-built space has toys and crafts for little guests, while a separate area, The Mez, has PlayStations, Wii consoles, Xboxes, computers and a 12-seater cinema for kids aged 8 and over.  

Itching to play, my son broke into a smile and charged full speed towards a child of a similar age without looking back. There was nothing left to do but go and enjoy ourselves.

Adult-only spaces

The spa has a spacious pool, sauna, steam room, treatment rooms and relaxation rooms, each tastefully decorated with timeless, tranquil interiors. The outdoor hot tub, where staff will deliver a drink of your choice – from Champagne to Apple Cider Vinegar shot – is the star of the show. But do expect a steady rotation of guests taking their turn in the bubbles.

For deeper relaxation, book a treatment performed by one of the skilled therapists. I emerged from my Back Massage and Facial (£125 for 55 minutes) in a blissed-out haze, tight shoulders loosened, tired skin a smidgen more awake. 

Although the spa is adults-only for the majority of the day, there are two 45-minute family swim sessions available to book each afternoon, which our little one loved. From May to mid September there’s also a separate outdoor pool, open to kiddies from 8am to 8pm. 

The second adults-only area is the Grain Store, a newly refurbished fitness sanctuary with the latest gym equipment, plus a packed timetable with classes including strength and conditioning, spin, HIT, barre and ‘calorie blast’, at a cost of £10 per class for hotel guests.

The holistic studio was more my speed, with the evening yoga nidra class, taught by the lovely Jinny, a highlight. As the sun set on a glorious spring day, we stretched limbs, breathed deeply, and were invited to welcome the season, embracing ‘new beginnings’ as we emerged from winter, ourselves letting go of old worries, old coats, that no longer served us.

It felt serendipitous, considering I was taking this trip during my final week of maternity leave and would soon be taking on the new identity of ‘working parent’.

Food and drink

Calcot has two restaurants – The Hive and The Brasserie. The former, a stylish café lounge, offers sandwiches, salads and grazing boards throughout the day, transforming into a cocktail bar by night. Light bites start at £10 for soup, while flatbreads are from £15. It also serves children’s dinner from 5pm to 6pm, although younger guests are welcome to join parents for a meal later in the evening if they choose. 

We were really impressed by how the staff accommodated our little one, asking if we’d like his sandwich brought out before ours so we could start the lengthy feeding process (yes!).

Crudités were also laid out buffet-style at dinner, giving impatient kids something to nibble on while the chef whipped up sausages, tomato pasta and pizza at break-neck speed. The set meal time for kids is a great idea, allowing child-free guests to avoid the noise and enabling us to fully encourage our boy’s excitable babbling, without worrying about disturbing others.

Dinner at The Brasserie was, suitably, a more formal, quiet and leisurely affair. 

We decided to take up the baby listening service (something I was in two minds about in advance), reasoning that our room really was only thirty seconds from the restaurant, and our boy was likely to sleep through after such an exciting day. A monitor in the room notifies reception if your child makes a sound, and a member of staff will come and notify you. Like other parents in the dining room, we also borrowed a video monitor from reception (available by request), for added reassurance. Calcot’s ‘home from home’ atmosphere meant I soon relaxed into it.

The food was exceptional, with our mains on the first night – lemon sole for him, venison for me – both knockouts. Those with a sweet tooth will want to order the pecan choux bun for pudding. Starters start at £12, while mains are from £24, and all desserts cost £5. And if you’re looking for a digestif, the Perfect Pear (similar to a French 75 cocktail, with a surprise hit of pepper), was so good we ordered it twice. 

Breakfast is also served in The Brasserie, with a well-stocked buffet alongside an à la carte menu. Unsurprisingly, our baby inhaled his first ever pancakes. 

Breakfast for adults and children is included in the cost of your stay, as is kids’ dinners if you stay midweek. Lunch and adults’ evening meals is at an extra charge.

The perfect balance  

We needn’t have worried how our baby would fit in on a luxury holiday. Calcot Manor manages to be family-friendly while simultaneously feeling entirely grown-up. Far from feeling like we’d abandoned him at the crèche, our short baby-free hours left us rejuvenated for some action-packed family time.

It’s hard to convey in an article how much we laughed – on family walks, splashing in the pool, playing in the room and trying new, exciting food at every meal. The staff made a real fuss over him, as did the other guests – he was going through a real ‘waving phase’ that week, and almost everyone enthusiastically obliged! There were plenty of other families too, and thanks to the creative timetables, we didn’t feel like we were encroaching on a haven for the child-free.

The true surprise, perhaps, was that the calm atmosphere seemed to rub off on our lively boy, who simply smiled in wonder at this strange, delightful turn of events.

Family-friendly doesn’t have to mean kiddie discos, soft play and beige food. Those holidays have their place (and I’m sure we’ll experience our fair share of them too). But while we’re in the phase where every environment is new and exciting, I know where I’d rather be. 

Rachel Moss was a guest of Calcot Manor and Spa, where prices start at £344 per night, including full spa access.

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The barman is serving a long, cool Aperol Spritz and, as he hands it to me with a dazzling smile, the sunset glints behind the glass – orange upon orange. My only test now is capturing it on Instagram and then making sure I don’t spill a drop as I return slowly to my friends.

Why the extra care? Because I’m in a swim-up bar, inside the best infinity pool I’ve ever seen – overlooking a sandy beach and glorious bay. None
of this existed 50 years ago: the achingly cool beach club, the beach or even the island.

Welcome to Sentosa in Singapore. Like Dubai, it’s a man-made paradise that delivers on every level. It’s a pleasure island for adults and families alike.

Take the +Twelve beach club, which feels more like a scene from a Hollywood movie than real-life, affordable luxury. Music is pumping in the background and while my gang are hanging out beside the pool, we also have our own private cabana with a plunge pool behind us. .

I’ve flown here for a two-sided holiday split between the small island of Sentosa and the shopping and foodie haven of Singapore City – a mere 30 minutes away by taxi or a short hop on the air-conditioned Mass Rapid Transit train system.

If you love Dubai and the endless attraction of cool hangouts and beaches, you’ll adore Sentosa. We check in at the Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa, which has a delightful art deco beach vibe.

It’s perhaps the most peaceful hotel I’ve ever visited, with lift lobbies opening out to beautiful balconies overlooking the swimming pool and private bay, and the rooms sporting individual balconies where a chorus of birdsong greets you every morning.

Eat at the delicious Italian Trapizza restaurant on Siloso Beach, a stroll from the hotel, and you’ll see polite signs asking you not to feed the monkeys. Tuck into your pizzas from their outdoor oven, and peacocks will strut around you. Like the rest of the island, it’s calm, enjoyable and a mixture of friendly locals and visitors.

The Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa has an awesome pool but I head for sun loungers on the hotel’s private beach with soft white sand (you can opt for kayaking or paddle boarding, too).

When we want adventure, we head for The Palawan @ Sentosa, an iconic beach playground, and book into the e-karting – real-life racing on a track and terrific fun.

There’s a zip line for those who dare, but I choose the more sedate cable car, which links hotspots on the island and gives you a bird’s-eye view (and the chance for spectacular selfies). There’s also Universal Studios for family fun.

But my own heaven is the aforementioned +Twelve Adults Beach Club, where a cabana for 12 with your own plunge pool costs just £200 for four hours. It’s the ultimate cool hang-out, filled with locals all enjoying the fresh platters of delicious food.

Back at the hotel, guests are lying on giant bean bags next to the beach to watch a free movie on the giant outdoor screen. Bliss.

Truth be told, I could stay for a month on sensational Sentosa. But
I have four days only – so off we head to Singapore City and one of the most famous hotels in the world.

The Shangri-La Singapore is the mecca for US presidents and Hollywood stars alike.

Thirty years ago, I went as a young twenty-something with my husband. When I return decades later, the same doorman who met us then – dressed in traditional splendour – greets me with the same wide smile. It’s a welcome I never forgot.

It’s very hard to leave the tranquil greenery of the Shangri-La, with its Wes Anderson-style yellow and white striped umbrellas on the verdant grass beside the pool.

Their kids’ club, Buds, is so incredible—with a piano and karaoke studio, wall art to decorate with fluorescent pens, giant ball pools, and a mini-kitchen for cooking lessons—that even the adults want to join in. 

Origin Bar is ranked 32 on the list of Asia’s 50 best bars 2024 (colonial-style cool), and the restaurants include the opulent Shang Palace (steamed lobster a speciality) or the Origin Grill.

But it’s not all about splashing the cash. Because a short bus ride to Orchard Road leaves you hunting for bargains (real savings in the malls where hand-painted coasters in rainbow colours cost just £10 each), enjoying the history of Emerald Hill (pretty painted original homes which are an Instagrammer’s dream) or walking through the bustling areas of Chinatown, Little India, Arab Street and Haji Lane – where Chinese, Malay and Indian locals exist in perfect harmony.

For lunch, I’m tucking into a Michelin-rated meal for just £2.

Yes, reader, in the nearby Tiong Bahru Market, one of many hawker food markets (or communal dining rooms), there’s always a queue for the Michelin-approved Hainanese boneless chicken rice (which tastes restaurant-perfect for £2) or the hong heng fried sotong prawn mee (Michelin-recognised dish for just £3).

Downstairs, in the market that sells fresh fish, meat and vegetables, one elderly stall holder recalls how chicken was such a delicacy in the 1960s that customers would ask for fillets to be hidden inside newspaper so their neighbours wouldn’t think them too rich and flashy.

For decades, Singapore was seen as a stopover. The script has changed – making it a go-to holiday destination in its own right.

From beautiful hotels, spotless streets, wonderful beaches and a foodie culture no matter what your budget – head there for your very own Singapore fling.

Amanda stayed at the Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa, where double rooms start at £269 per night and suites at £660, including bike rental, sea sports and outdoor movies. At Shangri-La Singapore, double rooms start at £250, while rooms in the luxury Valley Wing start at £410 per night.

Travel snobs, feel free to hate me for what I’m about to admit: not only did I visit Egypt, the ‘cradle of civilisation’, and stay in my hotel the entire time, but I’d do it all over again in a heartbeat.

The pyramids of Giza and the Valley of the Kings have their place, but there’s a reason UK holidaymakers are flocking to the likes of Sharm el-Sheikh.

According to TUI, rising costs and backlash to overtourism in ‘traditional’ sun holiday destinations such as Spain have led customers to seek alternative options, resulting in a surge of bookings for package breaks to Egypt.

Not only is the weather pretty much guaranteed year-round, you can experience luxury on a budget throughout the Sinai haven. Plus Sharm is a mere 5km from the airport, and is even exempt from the visa requirements affecting travel to the rest of the country.

Newly-opened Rixos Radamis is one resort looking to entice British tourists by offering more bang for less buck with its ‘luxury all-inclusive’ offering.

The 1,642-room hotel is right on the coastline, a short distance from Sharm’s nightlife and shopping centres.

Even so, with a plethora of all-singing, all-dancing facilities at the hotel – including a fleet of golf carts ferrying you around and a 700m river complete with gondolas – you’re unlikely to need (or want) to stray far.

There can be a level of judgement towards ‘fly and flop’ all-inclusive holidays, which made me feel anxious about sharing my travel plans with friends. On top of that, I only went abroad (to Spain) once as a child, and I’ve always worried I wasn’t as well-travelled as others my age. Now I get to see the world as part of my job, but I haven’t yet managed to shake that inferiority complex.

This time though, the need to relax overrode the desire to play catch-up with urbane anecdotes of cool places I’ve been – after all, what good is a holiday if you need another once you come back?

The pyramids have stood for thousands of years, and they’ll be there when I go to Egypt again. So as the plane touched down, I vowed to see this break as exactly that; no itinerary, no stress, just great weather and all the food and drink I wanted.

And I was spoilt for choice at Rixos Radamis. Alongside three main buffet restaurants, there are 16 à la carte eateries across the resort, with everything from Mexican to Thai cuisines available.

As an all-round experience, Mangal was a standout for me, thanks to its beachfront outdoor setting and open-air BBQ cooking. Looking over the ocean, sipping a cocktail with grilled-to-perfection meats stacked high on the plate in front of me, it was hard to believe this meal was part of the all-inclusive deal.

During our visit, my partner and I were also treated to a seven-course feast, courtesy of acclaimed Swedish chef Ebbe Vollmer. As part of a series of Michelin Chef Four Hands Dinners, he put together a special menu alongside Rixos’s Omer Yalcin.

The event (and others like it) was available for all guests for no extra charge, which made the caviar and lobster tail go down even sweeter.

After dinner, you can head to the arena for some entertainment. The week we stayed, the bill featured professional-level dance and acrobatics shows, but if you’re lucky, you might catch a major star like Enrique Iglesias (who’s performing there on May 3).

For younger guests, Rixy Kids Town is easily the biggest kids club I’ve ever seen, with its own Theatre Acting Academy, play Fire and Police Department, Green House, and even a Robotic Centre to keep little ones occupied.

If you’re wondering how we managed to fill our days without a sphinx or sarcophagus in sight, the answer is, pretty effortlessly.

By the time we’d had breakfast, sunbathed by the pool and joined in the aqua aerobics, it was time to try another eatery for lunch. Then, after a couple of frozen daiquiris and a lie-down as the sun sets, you’re ready to get dolled up for dinner.

The beach at Rixos Radamis also has its own coral reef, and while the weather was a little choppy for us to properly snorkel while we were there, it was easy to spend hours paddling in the crystal-clear shallows of the Red Sea, marvelling at the array of fish, which easily rivalled the Maldives or the Caribbean.

And, in all honestly, there’s nothing wrong with taking it easy and relaxing in your room. Ours was massive and gorgeously bright. But it was the little touches that set it above many others I’ve stayed at.

To up the relaxation factor, you can also try a massage at Anjana Spa, or just kick back in the sauna or steam room.

The real highlight, and an experience I’ll never forget, was a day in one of the private beachside cabanas – so if you’re celebrating a special occasion while on holiday, it’s an add-on that would definitely put the cherry on top.

For $300 (just over £230), you get a massive cabana to yourself, equipped with a hammock, hot tub and TV. If that wasn’t enough, you’ll also get your own personal butler, who made me feel like a total VIP.

My partner and I got a taste of the good life, and would absolutely do this again.

The ancient wonders of Egypt are still there on my bucket list, but I feel a lot less ancient thanks to this week of being pampered. For that, I’ll never feel guilty.

Jess Lindsay was a guest of Rixos Radamis. Prices for a week at the resort start at £1,000 per person including flights, with packages available from TUI, easyJet and On The Beach.

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I’m shivering on a bed of ice, nothing but the chattering of my teeth and the sound of howling huskies as company. The temperature is -4°C and the zip on my sleeping bag has jammed. I am, quite literally, freezing.

It’s not everyone’s idea of a luxury holiday, but that’s exactly what’s on offer at the Snow Hotel Kirkenes, an ice and igloo hotel near a remote Norwegian town that feels untouched by the frenzy of urban life.

I should start by saying that subzero temperatures are not my thing. But with the rise of ‘coolcations’ – the trend of traveling to destinations that offer a reprieve from stifling weather – Metro was keen to see if a night in the world’s most northerly snow hotel is worth your time and money.

It certainly won’t be the most comfortable sleep of your life, but it might well be the most memorable.

Inside the Snow Hotel Kirkenes

Some 250 miles north of the Arctic Circle, the hotel is set in dramatic surroundings beside a fjord, making it a great place to see the Northern Lights. It’s the permanent home of hundreds of huskies, whose affectionate howls greet you on arrival.

There are two ways to stay here. There are achingly cool cabins that could have been plucked straight from the set of a Scandi noir series: sheepskin rugs, sleek wooden furniture and floor-to-ceiling windows, perfect for aurora watching.

Then there is the snow hotel itself, a separate building hidden under a mound of snow.

It has 20 rooms, each separated from the corridor by a curtain — not exactly private, though I can’t imagine anyone feeling the urge to get frisky in here. All are individually themed; some have characters from Frozen, one a gigantic cat.

I had imagined the rooms to be cosy, something like an igloo, but the open corridor and curtain in lieu of a door suggests otherwise.

Ice sculptures line the hallway, and temperatures remain at a stable -4°C (you can see your breath as you fall asleep). The star of the show are the beds, giant blocks of what I can only assume is chemically treated ice, with a thin but surprisingly comfortable mattress and reindeer skin on top.

Unlike other ice hotels which are rebuilt each winter, this one stays open year-round, welcoming guests long after the fairy lights come off the Christmas tree.

There are two restaurants (one serves the best crème brûlée I’ve had in years) and a traditional Sami hut called Gabba, where you can try reindeer and warm lingonberry juice over a crackling fire.

During the day, there’s plenty to keep you occupied — activities include dog-sledding and king crab safaris. By night, it’s all about aurora hunting (you can read about that here).

What nobody tells you about staying in a snow hotel

Despite its remote location, the Snow Hotel receives a steady stream of guests. Much of that is due to Kirkenes being the final stop for Hurtigruten cruise ships sailing the Norwegian coastal route. Passengers can add a night at the hotel to their voyage, and many of the hotel guests Metro spoke to had done just that.

To prepare us for a night on the ice, we were given a late afternoon tour of the snow hotel.

It felt colder inside than it did on the fjord, and the discovery that one corridor leads directly outside – again, no door – raised the group’s collective eyebrow.

At one end of the hotel is a slightly shabby ice bar where someone had spilled a drink, leaving a crimson trail on the floor. The bar is connected to a tunnel that brings you to the main building (not made of snow). Here you’ll find bathrooms, a large luggage store and crucially, central heating.

It’s also where you get kitted out for bedtime: sleeping bags, bedsheets, balaclavas and knitted boots are provided.

Once you cross the threshold ice-side, there are no creature comforts: no wardrobe, not even a bedside table, only frozen blocks to rest your head. Moisturiser and serum are applied in the luggage room before you bid farewell to your belongings.

As we changed into nighttime gear, one person got cold feet and asked to switch to a cabin. I can’t say I wasn’t tempted to bail out, but the rest of us soldiered on.

Hauling a heavy sleeping bag down an icy hallway wasn’t the most relaxing way to unwind before bed, and shimmying into a sheet in subzero temperatures was a bit of a struggle.

But eventually I was in, every inch cocooned apart from my nose. Then I realised I’d forgotten to turn off the light.

Try as I might, sleep would not come under the clinical glare of the blue lamp.

This left me no choice but to untangle myself from my shroud and hop on stocking feet across the ice to turn it off. The boots were too cumbersome to put back on.

Shattered with teeth chattering, it took 30 minutes to get comfortable again. In the end, I nuzzled my face under the sleeping bag for warmth, and drifted off after wondering why the hell I had agreed to sleep here in the first place.

The verdict

After the light fiasco, the room was dark and quiet. And, despite the flimsy curtain, I wasn’t disturbed by the snores of my fellow ice dwellers.

The bed was surprisingly comfortable, and I slept without waking — some of our group needed to use the bathroom in the middle of the night, and that dash across the glacial floor sounded less than ideal.

Would I do it again? No. Would I recommend you try it once, if you ever have the chance? Absolutely.

I’d go back to a snow hotel for the magic that comes with it: husky sledding, snowmobiling and chasing the Northern Lights. But next time around, I’ll be booking a cabin.

Alice Murphy was a guest of Hurtigruten and the Snow Hotel Kirkenes.

Ice rooms at the Snow Hotel inclusive of breakfast and dinner start from £275 per person per night; Gamme cabins start from £280 per person per night. For the month of April, all rates are 30% off.

Shattered by grief, Sappho leapt from the cliff to certain death over the unrequited love of a beautiful young sailor.

So goes the legend of the ancient lesbian poet of Lefkada, a ‘hidden gem’ island off the west coast of Greece. Nicknamed the ‘Greek Caribbean’ for its iridescent ocean and superstar beaches, Lefkada’s mythic past tells of tragic figures throughout the ages who threw themselves from the rugged heights to the depths of the sea.

These tales have been rejected by historians, but their romantic allure still adds mystique to the lush green hills and lunar white sands that make Lefkada the most unique – and perhaps most unspoiled – of the seven jewels known as the Ionian islands.

Blissfully untouched by commercialisation, Lefkada is a quiet slice of paradise that remains under the radar for British tourists. I fell for its charm three summers ago, wandering past whitewashed villas with sky-blue rooves to the shore of Agios Nikitas, a tiny fishing village where the water has an otherworldly quality. Bombshell beaches like Kathisma and Egremini on the island’s west coast are virtually empty during the shoulder seasons — I’ve returned to Lefkada in the quieter months of March and September, and loved it just the same. And if the latest travel trends are anything to go by, I could soon have more company.

In September last year, Greece announced plans to impose a €20 levy on cruise ship visitors to the islands of Santorini and Mykonos during peak summer season, in a bid to avert overtourism. As rules like these sweep Europe’s traditional hotspots, the popularity of lesser-known destinations like Lefkada — or Lefkas, as the Greeks call it — is only going to soar.

Getting to Lefkada: A unique journey

Lefkada is the only Greek island you can reach by car. Flanked by olive trees and willowy cypresses, a half-hour drive takes you off the mainland via a causeway from Preveza airport, which is served daily by budget airlines including Ryanair and easyJet from April to October.

During winter months, the easiest route is to fly direct to Athens, then take a €40 bus to the island which takes between four and five hours.

Jet2 recently announced plans to launch direct flights from Newcastle to Preveza in 2026, a sure sign that Lefkada is a destination to watch.

Lefkada is small — at just 35km long, it takes about 2.5 hours to drive the perimeter on well-paved roads with decent signage. Sleepy traditional villages break up the journey, a sort of ‘land that time forgot’ where locals spend hours sipping strong coffee on the veranda.

Bakeries here are unfettered by tourist prices, with authentic pastries such as spanokopita (spinach and feta pie) and kourabiedes (Greek butter cookies) for less than €2.

Even better value are Lefkada’s off-beat tavernas, which serve moreish plates of saganaki (fried cheese with honey), calamari, mussels and grilled octopus with glasses of chilled red wine for as little as €16 a head.

Lefkada’s secret beaches

Mountains dotted with dense forest tower over the capital of Lefkada town, which has all the standard fare of a Mediterranean tourist trap (think ice cream parlours, dinky boutiques and a string of canal-side bars, perfect for sunset cocktails).

But beyond the souvenir shops are some of Greece’s most breathtaking beaches; Porto Katsiki and Milos regularly rank in Lonely Planet’s top 10.

However, locals like Viktor, a 21-year-old DJ who grew up on the island, say you won’t find the best in a tourist guide. He says nothing compares to Kalamitsi, a coastal village surrounded by four beaches: Gaidaros, Kavalikefta, Vrachos and Avali, the most beautiful but most difficult to reach, set against a backdrop of majestic limestone cliffs.

Viktor also recommends a secret beach between famous Milos and Agios Nikitas, known for nudism.

Off the beaten track

Thanks to mild, rainy winters, Lefkada is surprisingly green compared to the dusty vistas of the more popular Cyclades islands like Santorini.

Hiking in the hills is both popular and challenging, but the effort is rewarded with spectacular views, especially if you combine your trek with dinner and drinks at glamorous hillside bars such as Amente or Utopia.

(A word of warning: book well in advance and pack a change of clothes, as there’s a strict dress code in Lefkada’s luxury establishments.)

The island’s unique weather conditions attract adrenaline junkies, too. Most head straight for Vasiliki, a long stretch of sand famed for world-class windsurfing and kiteboarding. International competitions are regularly held there thanks to reliable year-round breezes.

Day trips are best taken from the tourist town of Nydri, which also boasts the small but highly Instagrammable Dimossari waterfall on its outskirts. Boat hire on Lefkada is cheap, at around £90 for a canopy craft big enough to carry six people. Arguably the most popular jaunt is luxurious Meganisi, a celebrity magnet untouched by large-scale development.

Its closest neighbour is Skorpios, a mysterious island that was once the private paradise retreat of Aristotle Onassis.

But why leave when Lefkada has so much to offer? This island is Greece’s best-kept travel secret. Go, but keep it to yourself.

This article was first published on December 14, 2024.

When you hear the word Florida, of what do you think?

Maybe it’s Miami and all that comes with it: neon-lit strips, thumping music, and yawning stretches of golden sand beach.

Perhaps it’s Key West, known for historic sites and stunning sunsets, or Walt Disney World Resort – arguably the world’s most famous theme park.

One place you probably wouldn’t think of is Fort Myers. Southwest of Florida’s Gulf Coast, this coastal city between Naples and Sarasota punches above its weight with beaches, grub and history. I discovered the best it has to offer on a five day visit last summer.

Bars and boat rides

Southern Florida is alive with exotic wildlife, from alligators and river otters to racoons and the elusive black bear.

With a guise to spotting some of these creatures, we took a Captiva Cruises boat ride down to Cabbage Key, a 100-acre island home to a family-run inn, marina and Fort Myers famous ‘bar with all the money on the walls’.

The name is no exaggeration. Inside the Cabbage Key Inn & Restaurant, dollar bills cover every inch of the walls and ceiling. Each is signed with the name of whoever owned the note and the date they dined at the restaurant.

The owner told us the tradition started when a fisherman left his autographed bill taped to the wall over 60 years ago, ensuring a cold beer next time he stopped by.

Now, the George Washington wallpaper is worth an estimated $70,000.

The House Made Smoked Mahi Fish Dip I ordered was top tier, and don’t get me started on the key lime pie. But I was more excited about hanging my own dollar so that I, too, could feel a part of something years in the making.

Another top rated restaurant we didn’t have time to visit is The Veranda, where bow-tied staff serve up a slice of ‘Old Florida’. I’m told the shrimp cocktail is just about as juicy as one can get

On our journey back from the restaurant, a family of adorable bottlenose dolphins provided us with free entertainment.

If this feels a little too up close and personal, you can see other animals including one of Florida’s million or so alligators from a safer distance on a guided tram tour at the Ding Darling nature reserve, or on the Six Mile Cypress nature trail that winds around Gator Lake.

Big business brewing

After working up a thirst on the water, there was only one antidote: the Floridian nectar that is craft beer.

They can’t get enough of it. Lager, ale, hybrid, you name it, Fort Myers is flooded with indy breweries, each with a distinct twist.

Florida has a reputation for being America’s retirement state, but Fort Myers attracts lively Gen Zers from across the country, eager to soak up its quirky bar scene and year-round summer.

Part boozer part diner, Voodoo Brewing Co offers more than just your usual Stella.

I’m talking ‘Summertime Living’s Easy,’ ‘Where Our Secrets Go’ and ‘Voodoo Love Child,’ but after tucking into the ‘Chicky Chicky Bang Bang’ burger, I opted for an ‘Empty Calories’ beer – a 4.7% ABV American light lager than went down as smooth as a glass of water.

Point Ybel, the brewing company named after the 98ft Sanibel Lighthouse best known as Fort Myers’ mechanical mascot, is another unmissable stop for a bar hop.

Unlike other breweries, Point Ybel treats the creation of beer more like a science; everything on the premises is created in-house. Like Voodoo, Point Ybel bless their beer with the wackiest names; ‘Sanibel Light,’ ‘Johnny Jump Up’ and, my favourite, ‘You Only Yolo Once.’

Point Ybel was established in 2013, and they’re special because they live by the motto, ‘we never serve a beer we wouldn’t drink’. I’m not that much of a beer drinker in the UK, but their flagship ‘Snook Bite’ pint had me rethinking every time I’ve ever turned one down.

Suitably refreshed, it was straight to Fort Myers beach, regularly voted as one of the top 10 beaches in the US.

Another must-visit seaside stop is Margaritaville, a kitschy beach resort that sells tacos and deliciously affordable cocktails.

A devastating loss

Located on the East end of Sanibel island, the Sanibel Lighthouse was first lit on August 20, 1884, and has a central spiral staircase beginning about 10 feet above the ground.

Not only is the lighthouse a popular tourist attraction, it’s also a structure that’s history is cemented into the hearts of all Fort Myers residents, and for good reason too.

On September 28, 2022, a unique and challenging storm swept through from the Carribean up to North Carolina. Fort Myers was devastated, with ‘Hurricane Ian’ causing over $112 billion in damage and claiming more than 150 lives, making it one of the worst hurricanes in Florida’s history.

During my visit, just shy of two years later, Fort Myers has regained stability, but the scars of trauma remain.

President and CEO of the Sanibel and Captiva Chamber of Commerce, John Lai, choked on his words as he recounted his experience, and how the fear of losing the iconic lighthouse consumed him.

Miraculously, it only lost one leg, a giant metal rod that was retrieved from sea and attached with scaffolding, like a bandage to a knee.

After the hurricane, volunteers, government agencies, and local businesses worked tirelessly to clear debris, rebuild it’s infrastructure, and restore power.

The lighthouse’s recovery showcased the strength and unity of southwest Florida in the face of adversity. Today, it stands at the edge of the beach, covered in protection and awaiting refurbishment, still as proud as it was before.

I couldn’t help but think that nature is healing.

From quiet beaches to vibrant breweries, every moment in Fort Myers felt like a treasure.

This coastal town is the perfect blend of adventure and relaxation, a balance so many destinations find impossible to strike.

Will I be returning to Fort Myers in the future? Perhaps.

Will I be recommending this place to every friend and colleague for years to come? It goes without saying.

Zac Haniff was a guest of Fort Myers Tourism Board and British Airways.

Not long after I learned I was going to spend a night at Hawarden Castle in Wales, I ordered a biography of William Ewart Gladstone.

You may recognise that name, but I wouldn’t be surprised if you don’t. Gladstone was perhaps the definitive British statesman of the 19th century, serving as Prime Minister four times during the reign of Queen Victoria.

Yet he doesn’t have much of a footprint on modern British culture. Despite his record number of premierships, he managed to avoid any major wars or social upheaval while he was PM, and I mainly knew him as someone who was massively popular in the late 1800s without really understanding why.

But I was about to head across the country to the grand estate where the ‘Grand Old Man’ spent much of his free time, and where he died, aged 88, in 1898.

Unfortunately, it was only after the book arrived in the post that I realised it was 631 pages long: a bit ambitious for a one-night stay.

Despite reading voraciously since leaving London Euston, by the time my train pulled into Chester station, I’d only reached the point where Gladstone had made his first couple of speeches in parliament. Both, grimly, were focused on preserving slavery.

However, I knew that over time his outlook would change, and he would end up providing the title for a hit Manic Street Preachers song with his more enlightened quote: ‘All the world over, I will back the masses against the classes.’

The only way to get to the bottom of the man, I decided, was to read like my life depended on it.

When I arrived at Hawarden (don’t make the same mistake as I did when talking to the conductor: it’s pronounced ‘harden’), I was told by a fellow passenger that another town we had passed through was a ‘s**thole’, but Hawarden, by contrast, was ‘gentlemanly’.

It was an odd choice of adjective, I thought. More suited to a duel.

But after a few hours in this unassuming Flintshire village, it started to make sense. All the stuff I said before about Gladstone’s lack of cultural footprint — if you’re from Hawarden, you can forget that.

His craggy Victorian face is carved into a memorial fountain on the high street. For lunch, I had the Gladstone platter at Gladstone’s Library, looking out over the statue of Gladstone just off Gladstone Way.

After a pleasant couple of hours reading his biography by an open fire, I learned he once travelled to Italy and disguised himself as a mandolin player to track down the wife of a friend who had run away with her lover. Now this sounds like a man to be interested in.

History lesson completed, I headed to my lodgings at The West End of Hawarden Castle, a stately home that’s now run as a holiday let by the PM’s descendants.

Immediately, it was obvious why a man of Gladstone’s stature would be charmed by this place. Not only is the surrounding landscape stunning, the building itself is astonishing.

I’m not sure what I was expecting from a wing of a castle, but there are five bedrooms, bathrooms with rolltop bathtubs, an enormous kitchen, a living space with an open fire, a dining area (complete with an alarming image of a young Gladstone that takes up the entire wall) and a private garden replete with a sauna, hot tub and swimming lake.

And I had the place to myself. I lit the fire, put on a Miles Davis record, opened a packet of truffle crisps from a hamper left for me in the kitchen and read my book until it was time for dinner. I’d like to think the old PM would have thought of this as living.

Like many historic estates, legend has it that Hawarden Castle is haunted.

This myth was not dispelled by the waiter at the Glynne Arms, who said he had never heard of anyone staying in the West End on their own before.

Relaxing in the bath that night, I admit I did think about what I would do if I met the ghost of William Gladstone. Probably ask what he was thinking with all the slavery stuff, or why he didn’t just shave off that tiny patch of hair on his chin.

No phantoms were forthcoming, and I slept soundly that night.

The following morning, I took a walk around the estate, visiting the lake and the farm shop. There were still plenty of trees around, despite the Prime Minister’s well-documented pathological urge to chop them down — ‘arboreal slaughter’, as the biography’s author puts it.

What became clear was just how peaceful this place was, which in turn helped to answer one of my biggest questions about William Gladstone himself.

The main impression I’ve taken from the book is the man’s extraordinary energy. His speeches in the House of Commons would sometimes last for more than two hours over his 63-year political career; when he wasn’t cutting down trees, he read more than 20,000 books; and he visited almost every corner of Britain, walking for miles wherever he went.

Somehow, that energy seemed to peak in his old age. He became PM for the first time at the age of 58, and his fourth term came to an end when he was 84 years old.

It’s little wonder he’s considered one of the most remarkable people to ever hold the office. And it makes sense to me that Hawarden was the spot where he chose to recharge. I certainly felt ready for anything after just one night.

Perhaps at some point, I’ll even manage to make it to the end of this book.

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Type some variation of ‘balloons’ and ‘Turkey’ into TikTok and you’ll conjure thousands of clips of Cappadocia.

You know the ones I mean: hundreds of brightly coloured hot air balloons fill up the sky, floating above rugged extraterrestrial landscape.

The clips are so perfect, they could be AI generated — with comments calling it a ‘masterpiece’ and ‘legendary’. Naturally, I was a little suspicious.

Who amongst us hasn’t been burned by a TikTok recommendation. The bakeries with queues around the block, which charge £9 for a soggy cronut; ‘simple’ recipes for dishes that end up going straight in the bin.

And so I headed to the most famous part of central Turkey with trepidation. It’s a long way to travel to be duped by content creators.

Only, as it turns out, Cappadocia really is worth the hype — as long you know when to go.

First impressions of Cappadocia

The first thing to know about Cappadocia is that it looks like you’ve landed on Mars.

Quick geography lesson: volcanic eruptions millions of years ago covered the region in ash, which hardened into rock. Over time (a long time) these rocks eroded, creating deep valleys and distinctive rock formations known as ‘fairy chimneys’.

Humans first called the place home around 3.3 million years ago, carving churches and caves into the unusual landscape. Underground cities were also built as long ago as 7BC, and were lived in by those fearing religious persecution.

When the caves started collapse, the government ordered people to leave for their safety, with the homes completely emptying by the 1950s.

Now though, so-called cave hotels are popular among tourists visiting the region.

I stayed at Argos in Cappadocia, on the outskirts of Uçhisar, the highest of the region’s quaint villages with views of the nearby Pigeon Valley.

Set among winding cobbled lanes, the buildings of Argos seem to emerge organically from the rocks.

Each of the 71 rooms is slightly different from the other, and the vibes are cosy but luxurious. Think beamed ceilings, Ottoman rugs, Nespresso machines and fancy toiletries from upscale US brand Grown Alchemist.

Guests can also enjoy a free tour around the hotel (daily, at 5pm), where you can explore the hotel’s underground network.

There’s a seemingly never-ending wine cellar and a cavernous chapel-like room, thought to have been where caravans travelling the Silk Road stopped to rest.

There’s also a cave spa — the largest in Turkey — with an indoor pool, sauna steam, and treatment rooms. You can indulge in traditional hammams, or pick from an array of TLC treatments.

And, with Cappadocia reaching highs of just 10C in March, the outdoor pool is heated to bath-like temperature.

I’m told by a local taxi driver that the hotel’s Turkish restaurant Nahita, is popular among tourists, not just those staying at the hotel. Staff are friendly (a theme in Turkey), without being annoying, and the food is delicious.

It’s fine-dining, but still feels authentic. Standouts include the homemade Manti (a type of pasta salad you may have also seen on TikTok) and Yaglama, best described as Turkey’s equivalent of lasagna. Prices come in at around £17 for a starter, and £35 for a main course.

This is also where Argos guests enjoy breakfast, where you can feast on an impressive buffet spread. Eggs are made to order, and you can opt for various Turkish salads, meats and breads too. I’d recommend opting for a table on the outdoor terrace.

The hotel also has an international restaurant, Seki, which has a more laid-back feel. It was here I had Celtik kebab, made with sirloin steak, and the best baklava I’ve ever eaten. It’s also slightly cheaper here. My main course was £28, and desert was £11.

Away from the hotel, Reserved Restaurant is a charming spot, serving more authentic Turkish cuisine, or you can head to Göreme, the main tourist town.

Balloon chasing in Cappadocia

To get up close and personal with Cappadocia’s iconic balloons, I enlisted the help of a local taxi driver, Hanifi, the best-connected man in the area.

Born and raised in the region, Hanifi, 51, tells me he spent his childhood in a cave house. Having lived here his entire life, from restaurants recommendations to tours, he knows a thing or two.

Our first stop was Rose Valley, a balloon take-off site which gets its name from the pink hue of the rocks at sunrise and sunset.

Hot air balloons have been filling Cappadocia’s skies since the 1980s, and have grown in popularity ever since.

A word of warning though: they fly at sunrise, so be prepared to be up early.

At first, still in the dark, and in desperate need of caffeine, I wasn’t sure how impressive this would be.

But as the first balloon took off, then another and another, I felt as if I was in some kind of alternate reality.

The sight unfolding in front of you doesn’t seem real. Up to 150 hot air balloons can fill Cappadocia’s skies (the number is controlled by the Turkish Aeronautical Association) — everywhere you turn, they silently appear. It was like standing in a snow globe, only instead of a flurry of flakes, it’s hot air balloons.

Whether you wave at a balloon passing directly above you, or admire the spectacle as they float into the distance — it’s truly magical and even better than it looks on film.

The obvious downside is that you’re never going to be the only tourist wanting to witness the magic.

I’m told by locals that in the summer months, there are queues to get into the valleys, and hordes of influencers clamouring to snap the perfect shot — but I had no such problem. Visiting in low-season meant crowds were at a minimum.

Next, Hanifi takes me to Çavuşin village — up a steep path, past the abandoned cave homes to St John the Baptist Church, which was carved out of the rocks sometime in 5 AD.

The top of this hill was another incredible vantage point — and we were the only people there.

I ask Hanifi if he ever gets bored of it. At first he laughs and sheepishly nods, but before long, he’s also gazing skyward, proving that even after 50 years, the spell these balloons cast hasn’t broken just yet.

For two hours, Hanifi charged €50, which included hotel pick-up and drop-off.

Depending on where your hotel is, you might simply be able to walk outside your front door and catch the balloons. My balcony at Argos provided a more leisurely opportunity to glimpse them again, albeit from a distance.

But you don’t need to get in a balloon to see the action. With a fear of heights, I ticked this off my bucket-list, while remaining firmly on solid ground.

See the sights beyond Cappadocia’s hot air balloons

Almost every company offers three colour-coded tours: red, green and blue.

I opted for red, the most popular, a six-hour tour for €55 (£45) that takes in the most-visited tourist attractions in northern Cappadocia.

I meet my tour guide, Elif, at the hotel. She’s lived in Cappadocia for 14 years, and is undeniably passionate about the place she calls home.

She tells us that, while she’s enjoyed seeing tourism boom here, there is so much more to the place than balloons.

‘Social media has had a snowball effect for us,’ she says. ‘I wish people would visit here with more of a desire to learn about the culture, traditions and history.

‘As the balloon flights get more and more popular, people are not that interested in anything else.’

We stop first at Uçhisar Castle, the highest rock formation in Cappadocia. You could be on the set of Star Wars as you peer into cave houses and climb winding steps.

There’s also a trip to Zelve Open Air museum, a large Byzantine-era cave settlement with churches that date back to 500 AD.

Perhaps the most impressive stop though was to Paşabağı, or Monks Valley, named because Christian monks would hide in homes carved into the rocks.

Elif says that in summer, queues can snake all the way to the carpark — meanwhile, we walked straight in.

‘This is the best time to visit,’ she tells me. ‘When it’s colder there are fewer tourists, but it’s still beautiful.’

The tour also includes lunch at Dürümcü Ustanın Yeri, in Avanos, a small town famed for its pottery. Be sure to order the adana kebab — I’m still thinking about it.

The final stop on the red tour was a trip to Alaaddin Family Ceramic Art Gallery.

Avanos is on the banks of the Red River, which has supplied generations with the red clay to create their masterpieces, as far back as around 2000 BC.

The talented potters at Alaaddin use foot-driven spinning wheels — and they might even let you have a go. I didn’t exactly have my Ghost moment with Ahmed, who patiently attempted to find some semblance of creative talent within me, but it was still a lot of fun.

My final verdict

I didn’t really know what to expect when I travelled to Turkey.

As a sun-seeker, I hadn’t been thrilled by temperatures similar to those back home, but low-season ended up making the trip all the more special.

Watching the balloons take flight — they really do deserve the hype.

But there’s so much more to this region that you see on TikTok, and you can discover it all, without the crowds, at this time of year.

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Tourists armed with selfie sticks outside glittering mansions. Queues winding outside Instagram-famous restaurants. Impatient waiters shouting orders. Relentless noise.

This is the mayhem I expected from my visit to Lake Maggiore, the second-largest lake in Italy that stretches into Switzerland. 

Over-tourism has long been a problem at neighbouring Lake Como, so my expectations for a relaxing holiday to the Italian lakeside were low.

Yet, I am pleasantly surprised. Compared to its flashier sister, Maggiore is bigger, but less crowded and more affordable. It is, I am told, where Italians choose to holiday in summer.

Sun-drenched piazzas are filled with locals sipping frothy cappuccinos in the morning and aperitivo in the afternoon. There is no battle for boat tickets and visitors seem to be taking in the scenery at a leisurely pace

Boat ride to the ‘Pearl of the Ionian Sea’

My first day in Lake Maggiore is spent in Stresa, one of the towns attracting the most interest from foreigners.

Quaint cobbled streets and luxury hotels like Grand Hôtel des Îles Borromées, where Hemingway once stayed, are just part of the allure. Most people visit for the nearby Borromean Islands.

Boats run from the waterfront in Stresa and from there, it is a 20-minute to Isola Bella, a crescent-shaped island nicknamed the ‘Pearl of the Ionian Sea’.

Out of the three main Borromean islands, it is perhaps the most famous, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors every year.

I had seen a lot of Isola Bella on TikTok, but nothing could have prepared me for the grandeur.

It is home to the 16th-century Borromeo Palace (entry €18), the residence of the Borromeo family, one of Italy’s most known aristocrats.

Over the centuries, some of Europe’s most notable figures have stayed at one of the 50 rooms, from Napoleon Bonaparte and his wife, Joséphine de Beauharnais, to British Prime Minister Ramsay MacDonald.

Today, no one lives there, but both the palace and the majestic gardens are open to the public.

Intricate frescoes, Murano chandeliers and Flemish tapestries hark back to the mansion’s aristocratic past. There is also an impressive collection of paintings and marble sculptures, showcasing the wealth that once flowed through the family.

Metro’s top tip: Leave enough time for the Italian gardens that surround the palace and overlook Lake Maggiore. The top terrace – one of 10 – offers a panoramic view of the other Borromean Islands and the rolling hills of the Alps in the distance.

Isola Madre, also known for its botanical gardens, and Isola dei Pescatori, a charming fishing village, are the other two nearby islands worth visiting. I can spend an entire day exploring their alleyways and watching the fishing boats drifting in the distance.

Staying at a haunted Italian castle

After being spoiled by the magnificence of Isola Bella, I cannot imagine staying anywhere but Castello Dal Pozzo, on the outskirts of the town of Arona.

Nestled in the Alpine foothills, the five-star resort is hidden from the crowds, though at the start of September, the area is quieter than expected.

Originally built as a fortress, Castello Dal Pozzo was later transformed into an aristocratic residence by the noble Dal Pozzo family, who still own and run the estate.

Today, it operates as a luxury hotel with manicured bedrooms, marble bathrooms and underfloor heating, yet somehow it still feels like staying in their private home. The walls are covered with centuries-old heirlooms and antique portraits belonging to the family, transporting you back several centuries.

Legends also claim that the castle is haunted by the ghost of Barbara Visconti, from the noble Visconti family of Milan.

I am told she fell in love with a soldier beneath her status and was locked away in the castle by her father to prevent the scandal. She is said to have died of heartbreak, and her spirit is rumoured to wander the halls waiting searching for her love Matteo.

It may have been the comfort of my mattress or all the red wine I gulped at dinner, but no spirits bothered me at night.

Metro’s top tip: Even if you are not staying at Castello Dal Pozzo, do visit the enchanting woodland that surrounds the grounds. Enjoy lunch or just a refreshment at the Dan Garden Lounge.

A day trip to Milan

Known as Italy’s fashion and financial capital, Milan is a cosmopolitan city bursting with life.

There is so much to see and experience, from Duomo di Milano, one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world, and the adjacent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy’s oldest shopping arcade, to the football stadiums of AC Milan and Inter Milan.

The city is also home to Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘The Last Supper’, housed in the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, and offers a renowned art scene with galleries like the Fondazione Prada. Why have I given myself only 12 hours to see it?

Milan is within easy reach from most London airports, so I know that I can easily return for a weekend. My trip also falls right in the middle of Milan Fashion Week when the city is transformed into a battleground for fashion influencers, photographers and designers.

I spend the day rushing from the Duomo di Milano and Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology to the hip neighbourhood of Naviglio, filled with art galleries and vintage shops. It is a hectic day but I try to add as much as possible to the itinerary to get the most of this enchanting city.

I find peace at dinner at Acanto at the Principe di Savoia, in the heart of the city. Located on the ground floor of the 301-room hotel, the restaurant is an epitome of Italian luxury with its elegant chandeliers and marble walls.

The menu is overwhelming – chestnut tagliolini, black ravioli with cuttlefish and salt-crusted Mediterranean seabass. I want to try everything – so I am only relieved when head chef Matteo Gabrielli twists my arm and I agree to have the six-course tasting menu, which starts at over £100. If he insists, then I shall.

He retreats to the kitchen, framed by sleek glass walls at the far end of the dining room. I observe from my table as his culinary brigade moves with precision, every chop and stir unfolding like a choreographed dance.

One by one, intricate Milanese dishes are brought, each as impressive as the next. They are so beautiful, it seems like a sin to eat them, but I dig in regardless. My favourite is a perfectly rich nettle soup served in a Faberge-like egg and deep-fried parmigiana with a rich tomato sauce.

The dinner ends with a taste of Acanto’s scrumptious desserts. A selection of sorbets, a scrumptious strawberry pavlova and a chocolate mousse-like cake spin in front of me.

Of course, Milan is famous for its food scene, so I am not surprised by the artistry at Acanto. There are also plenty of budget options to try that are so worth the trip. Le Polveri for pastries; Radetzky for apperitivo; Trattoria Madonnina for an old-school Milanese dishes; L’Antica Pizzeria for pizza.

The list could go on and on, but my time in Milan does not. I hope to return very soon to explore more of this city.

48 hours in Lake Maggiore: Metro's itinerary

Day 1

Morning – Arrive in Arona and get to know the town. Its cobbled streets hide some excellent shops, while the lakefront is perfect for long walks.

Lunch – Get a light lunch and a glass of Aperol and watch the world go by at Enoteca Simonotti Wine Bar. Then visit Luigi Guffanti 1876, a legendary cheese shop near the train station.

Afternoon – head to the outskirts of Arona to visit the majestic grounds of Castello Dal Pozzo if you are not staying there. The garden and adjacent woodland are separated from any roads and traffic.

Evening – Dinner is at Enoteca Ristorante Il Grappolo, a Piedmontese restaurant nestled in a secluded street in the town centre. Order the blue cheese board to end the day on the right note.

Day 2

Morning – Get up and head straight to the nearby town of Stresa. Buses leave from outside the train station. Cash is king here when it comes to travel.

Lunch – Put aside a few hours to tour the Borromean Islands. They are all unique and worth the journey.

Afternoon – Walk around in Stresa. It is the more touristy town and there is plenty to see. Grab a light lunch in Al Buscion.

Evening – End the trip at Sky Bar at Hotel La Palma, which offers an unforgettable view of Lake Maggiore.

Gergana Krasteva was a guest of Castello Dal Pozzo, a five-star hotel in the town of Arona. The hotel is closed from October to March for the winter season. Prices start from £180 for a single room.

‘It’s going to drop to -20C, make sure to pack thermals!’ 

My eyes popped when WhatsApp delivered this message days before a cruise around the Arctic Circle, where we’d dog sled, crab fish and spend nights outside stargazing in search of the Northern Lights. (You can read more about that here.)

I was ecstatic to be exploring the icy wilderness, but less enthused about what it would do to my skin, which had just emerged from a bitter UK winter, dry, cracked and riddled with spots.

I couldn’t risk a reversal, but with payday approaching, I didn’t have much to splash on expensive skincare. And so I headed to Reddit to find consensus on the best budget moisturiser for cold weather.

There was no science behind my investigation. I simply followed the crowd, tallying up the most commonly mentioned products and discounting any that cost more than £20. That left me with four options, including a long-standing personal favourite I was pleased to see people rave about.

And lastly, just so we’re clear, this is not an ad: I paid for each product myself.

Arctic weather is brutal. Low humidity and penetrating wind chill leaves skin dry and tight, with a weakened barrier that makes your face rough, red and itchy. That’s why a decent moisturiser is essential to lock in hydration and keep it protected.

It’s also notoriously unpredictable. And, despite the Whatsapp warning, we arrived in early February in the middle of a heatwave that locals said they hadn’t seen in 30 years. In place of the promised -20C, we were treated to tropical lows of -7C (though my weather app did say it felt like -15C).

So which fared best in the polar chill?

Weleda Skin Food (£11)

First up was Weleda Skin Food, a cult favourite that Reddit tells me is one of the best budget moisturisers you can get your hands on. Hailey Bieber and Victoria Beckham are fans.

I’d previously used Skin Food Light, a lighter formulation that absorbs quickly, but in the unforgiving climes of northern Norway, notches needed to be stepped up. If it’s good enough for Hailey Bieber, it’s good enough for snowmobiling beside the Barents Sea.

This is a seriously rich product. Thick and creamy, it oozes slowly from its squeezy bottle. It has a light, herby fragrance (ingredients include rosemary and lavender), which some Redditors said they were put off by, but didn’t bother me. 

What did bother me, however, was the time it took to sink into my face. I was on the kind of military schedule only found on army bases and hop on, hop off cruise ships; there were fjords to be photographed and auroras to be gawked at.

Ten minutes after applying a pea-sized amount of Skin Food to my face, I was still sitting on the side of my cabin bed, gingerly touching my cheeks to check if it had absorbed enough for a layer of SPF.

I didn’t love the heaviness, but it did stop my skin getting dry in the cold. At just £11, it’s a bargain worth trying.

Overall rating: 7/10

Where to buy: Superdrug, Boots, Amazon and Cult Beauty

Avene Hydrance Aqua gel balm (£18.93)

Of the four moisturisers I tested, this was the lightest, with the most attractive packaging.

The screw-top pot made me nostalgic; it reminded me of the Ponds face cream armies of British mothers used in the late 90s.

I could tell on sight that this wasn’t the ideal consistency for polar temperatures. The gel is light and jelly-like; it felt thin between my fingers compared to the other products.

After a day of wear, my forehead was tight and dry, though I did spend a lot of time indoors on the ship due to a storm.

The dehydrating effect of recycled air and central heating must be taken into account, but this is one I’d leave at home next time.

Overall rating: 6/10

Where to buy: Boots, Amazon and CultBeauty

Eucerin Urea Face Cream (£19)

It felt somewhat unfair to this face cream to wear it on an excursion to Nordkapp, the most northerly point of mainland Europe often referred to as the end of the world.

Here, the cold is bone-chilling, with an Arctic wind that penetrates even the best quality thermals like a dagger.

Against such extremes, I didn’t expect this cream to do much — the branding is rather old-fashioned, and a whip around my girls’ WhatsApp groups confirmed that none of my skin-savvy friends had ever used it.

But I was pleasantly surprised. The cream applied smoothly and acted as an excellent base for my beloved Charlotte Tilbury Flawless Filter (IYKYK). The hydration lasted all day, and the packaging belies a genuinely effective product. Unscented and fuss-free, this is a straight-talking moisturiser I’ll be buying again.

A fellow writer who had no idea I was testing skincare even complimented my complexion as we gazed out over the ocean, eyes squinting toward the North Pole.

‘Your skin looks really dewy,’ she shouted over the 35mph breeze. ‘Thank you,’ I roared back, making mental note to tell everyone that this £19 buy punches above its weight.

Overall rating: 9/10

Where to buy: Amazon, Boots, Superdrug, Sephora UK and LookFantastic

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast (£18.99)

In the unforgiving chill of Kirkenes, a Norwegian mining town a ten-minute drive from the Russian border, this La Roche-Posay classic had its work cut out.

Cicaplast is a multipurpose balm that promises to protect and soothe irritated skin. I’ve used it for years, but would it keep my face fresh while dog sledding and skiddooing across frozen fjords?

The short answer is yes, even after a night spent chasing the Northern Lights until 2am (though it did nothing to keep rosacea at bay, as a series of photos of my roaring crimson cheeks can confirm).

But as a longtime fan of this product, I was a little disappointed that my skin looked fresher after a day of the Eucerin cream. It’s worth noting that while the wind was more intense on the excursion to Nordkapp,

Overall rating: 8/10

Where to buy: Boots, LookFantastic, Amazon, Cult Beauty and most independent pharmacies

The verdict – which budget moisturiser was best?

All in all, it was Eucerin Urea Face Cream for the win.

Redditors had nothing but praise for this product — comments include ‘I can’t speak highly enough of it’ and ‘it’s a blessing, always raving about this stuff’. I get what they mean, but what’s the science behind it?

The ingredients are pretty straightforward. There’s water, the most common skincare ingredient of all which acts as a solvent for other ingredients that don’t like to dissolve in oil-based creams.

Then there’s urea, which yes, if you’re about to Google it, is the same thing found in pee. It’s actually a highly effective natural moisturising factor called NMF. All you need to know is that it helps skin hold onto water, which – in skincare terms – means it improves your skin barrier function.

Other star ingredients include glycerin – another natural moisturiser found in our skin – and sodium lactate, which helps to regulate pH and keep bacteria at bay.

Metro’s Acting Lifestyle Editor, Kristina Beanland, recently flew business class from London to Chicago with Aer Lingus.

It was her first time travelling outside economy, and the experience was a world away from the flying she’s accustomed to.

From take-off champagne to pillows and metal spoons, this is her honest review.

Kristina, over to you.

The background: Before my trip to the Windy City, the closest I’ve come to flying in style was on an over-booked flight to Dubai, when my family and I were bumped up to Premium Economy.

Even then, aged 11, the footrests and extra leg-room were enough for me to know, deep in my bones, that I was made for this life.

More than 20 years later, my time had finally come. Never had I boarded a plane and turned left, until now.

Set the scene. What does it look like? It’s exactly like you see in the movies: huge seats, or rather, booths, smiling cabin crew, and as much food and drink as you care to consume.

How much room do you actually get? Let me give you some stats: Aer Lingus business class seats are 22 inches wide, to put that into perspective, Ryanair economy seats are 15.5 inches.

All the seats on my flight also had aisle access, so no clambering over other passengers to go to the loo. It doesn’t exactly feel private – you can’t pretend you’re in your own flying apartment – but you definitely get some much-appreciated personal space.

What about the service? I’d barely stowed my bag in the overhead locker when a friendly member of the cabin crew asked me (by name, of course) if I’d like a ‘pre-take off’ drink.

I enjoy everything about this premise. You’re essentially given an alcoholic drink (virgin options are also available), that you must down before you have to hand the glass back and strap yourself in for take off.

Which did you go for? I, of course, ordered champagne, and nibbles were offered too. When I couldn’t decide between two different flavours of artisan crackers, both were left on my table.

More about the food, please. You’re given a menu to choose from, and it’s so much more than chicken or beef. Options on the current menu include flaky pan-fried hake on toasted fregola pasta, or skin-on thyme and parsley chicken supreme.

Courses are served one after the other. There’s no plastic tray, instead there are plates and bowls, metal cutlery and, the piece de resistance: a tablecloth.

After dinner, I watched Mrs Harris Goes to Paris and Pretty Woman, which felt apt for my current situation. More champagne was followed by a snooze.

Anything else? Before settling in, I investigated the little cupboards and cubby holes that surrounded my seat. There’s the usual – charging ports – but also a handy toiletry bag that includes an eye mask and ear plugs.

You’re also given a nice thick duvet, the kind you’d actually have on your bed at home, and a pillow, perfect for when you decide to fully recline your chair into a completely flat bed and get some sleep. At 5ft 4in, I was able to fully stretch out, and the beds actually extend to 6ft.

I did wonder what the large cupboard below my feet was for, only to have a cabin crew member practically hurl themselves at me to stop me from accidentally inflating my life jacket. Mystery solved.

Ok, it sounds great. How much does it cost? Aer Lingus Business Class fares start from £1,179 return. Standard economy seats start from £229, so the jump is, admittedly, massive.

Final thoughts? The fact that there are fewer travellers in this part of the cabin means everything feels a little less chaotic.

You don’t hear the noise of other people’s call bells, or the sound of a herd of men snoring. There are no long queues for the loos, or an army of kids racing up and down the aisles.

I loved everything about my business class flight. Of course, they don’t come cheap, and if you’re looking to splurge, I’d suggest maybe holding out for a long-haul trip, rather than my seven hour mid-haul to Chicago.

But, if you fancy spoiling yourself for a big birthday, or on your honeymoon perhaps, I’d highly recommend it.

Fly from the UK to Chicago via Dublin with Aer Lingus and go through US Customs and Immigration pre-clearance in Ireland.

Aer Lingus offers up to 14 weekly flights to Chicago, with economy fares starting from £229 return and Business Class from £1,179 return.

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Get in touch by emailing MetroLifestyleTeam@Metro.co.uk.

Seventeen years ago, Hollywood plucked a tiny Greek island from obscurity and put it on the map. But it hasn’t been affected by fame. In fact, things never really changed. 

We are, of course, talking about Skopelos, a craggy island in the Aegean Sea that served as the filming location of Mamma Mia!, the 2008 musical rom-com based on the songs of ABBA.

Verdant hills and turquoise water provide an idyllic backdrop to Sophie and Sky’s iconic love story, but there’s more to this island than stunning scenery.

Skopelos belongs to the Northern Sporades, a group of islands located just east of mainland Greece. Rich with ancient histroy, it dates back to the late Bronze Age, when it was colonised by Cretans.

Embroidered with golden beaches, traditional domed churches and whitewashed villages, for decades, Skopelos felt like a land that time forgot.

But in recent years, the island has drawn a growing number of tourists. In 2023, record-breaking numbers descended on its shores, with 169,216 arrivals marking a 17% rise on the previous year.

This might be a drop in the ocean compared to Santorini’s 3.4 million, but as more travellers swap tourist hotspots for off-the-beaten-path destinations, Skopelos has all the necessary ingredients to become a star.

And while the ‘Mamma Mia! effect’ might be the selling point that draws people to this Mediterranean jewel, 300 days of uninterrupted sunshine, slower pace of life and unspoiled landscapes are why they keep coming back.

Getting to Skopelos and best time to visit

Skopelos’ tourist season begins in May and runs until late October. The cooler months belong to locals.

We visited in July, when the Mediterranean climate delivers blissful daily averages of 27°C.

Skopelos is expensive to get to compared to other Greek islands, especially during high season.

There is no airport on the island, which means you must fly to the neighbouring island of Skiathos, then take a ferry to your final destination. 

To keep costs down, we flew from London Stansted via Pisa with easyJet. During peak season, return fares start from €162 (£135) per person, and the journey takes around six hours.

However, you can fly direct, just expect prices to be steeper. Major UK airports including London Gatwick, Manchester and Birmingham all operate routes to Skiathos with airlines such as easyJet, Jet2 and TUI.

Return fares average around €355 (£296) during the summer, but cut the journey time by half.

An unspoiled landscape

It’s not surprising the Mamma Mia! producers chose this 96.3 km² patch of paradise as their base. The film is also the perfect example of a Hollywood production squad respecting the location, its residents, and natural beauty.

The famous beach bar and jetty, where Tanya belts out ‘Does Your Mother Know,’ was built on Kastani beach on the west of the island. After filming wrapped, the sets were removed and the area restored.

Surrounded by lush pine trees, the beach remains quiet and uncommercialised — the only activity is a handful of sun-worshippers who lounge on the sand, occasionally dragging themselves for a dip in the water.

The same goes for the Chapel of Agios Ioannis, an isolated church on a barren sea rock where Donna famously married Sam.

Despite being an iconic movie location — providing magical views of Skopelos and the neighbouring island of Alonissos — visitors continue to respect the religious setting. After climbing the 223 steps carved into stone, tourists take photos, light a candle in the chapel, and leave without a trace. 

Panormos Beach on Skopelos’ west coast is another unspoiled stretch. Once an ancient Greek harbour, we reached this destination by travelling like locals on a €5 (£4) return bus from Skopelos Town. If you’d rather get a taxi, a one-way journey costs around €20 (£16).

Edging onto the seafront, we immediately got the ‘Greek paradise’ feeling everyone talks about.

White pebbles stretch into shimmering ocean, and lush greenery surrounds the bay, which is lined with traditional tavernas serving stewed plums — a Skopelos delicacy.

After working up an appetite, we stopped at the family-run Nikos Taverna and ordered baked garlic aubergine, stuffed calamari, orzo pasta and a Greek salad. With a Mythos beer and a small carafe of white wine, the bill came to around €25 (£20) — not bad when the view is like a scene from a postcard.

Don’t forget to try the traditional Skopelos cheese pie, made in a frying pan and served with honey. It’s a favourite among locals, and you’ll find it at almost every restaurant or cafe on the island.

Conscious tourism

For centuries, agriculture was Skopelos’ main source of industry. While the olive oil business is still a major asset — just like it is for many Greek islands — today, the island relies almost entirely on tourism.

While 2023 brought more visitors than ever before, the island has been able to cope with the demand.

Across the water in Skiathos, however, it’s a different story.

Skiathos received more than 450,000 tourists in 2023, leading hoteliers on the island to raise concerns that over-tourism is directly impacting their local economy.

Increases in the stayover duty and the Climate Resilience Fee, taxes charged to visitors in Greece, are making life difficult for both residents and tourists.

Meanwhile, Skopelos is less accessible and has less tourist infrastructures than its neighbour, allowing it to escape much of the impact of over-tourism.

Tradition and religion are protected

A holiday in Skopelos is more than hopping from beach to beach. There’s a strong culture to lean into, from food to religion. The island is home to many picturesque churches and monasteries — all of which are at the centre of every celebration. 

And the people of Skopelos know how to throw a party. We accidentally crashed a wedding that seemed to be attended by the entire town, and saw a waitress who had served us lunch hours before, throwing confetti over the newlyweds before running back to the harbour to finish her shift.

And there are plenty of events on the island you don’t need to crash.

Throughout the year, locals organise festivals to honour their saints, with festivities taking place across the island.

The feast of Agios Reginos, the patron saint of Skopelos, takes place each year on February 25; there’s also the summer Loizia Festival in Glossa, dedicated to one of the most famous composers in Greece, Manos Loizos.

If you’re in the market for free booze and a boogie, The Wine Festival, also in the village of Glossa, takes place in the middle of September. Visitors are offered free wine, and traditional dancing lasts until the early hours.

Skopelos is proof that pop culture can coexist with tradition — and that respectful tourism is possible.

With friendly locals, delicious food, pretty towns, stunning beaches, and exceptional natural beauty, this hidden jewel will instantly have your heart. I know it’s left a lasting impression on mine.

At the risk of sounding like an insufferable snob, my job as editor of The Slice newsletter means I often get to eat at some of London’s best restaurants.

One of my favourite cuisines is Greek – I love tearing flatbread to dip into smoky roasted aubergine, savouring souvlaki straight from the grill and tucking into hot strips of squeaky, salty halloumi.

But despite some impressive encounters with Greece’s gastronomy in my home city, nothing came close to the food culture I experienced on a recent visit to Crete.

After all, how can you beat juicy tomatoes that taste like sunshine, generous glugs of extra virgin olive oil grown just a few miles away, freshly made cheese from centuries-old recipes, decadent desserts dripping in Cretan honey… Sorry London, you don’t come close.

A Greek feast 

My culinary adventure began at the InterContinental Crete, a newly-opened luxury hotel from IHG Hotels & Resorts on the seafront of Agios Nikolaos that promised to introduce me to the best grub Crete has to offer.

With swish interiors and an upscale but laidback vibe, the resort is already building a reputation as a premium ‘foodie’ destination.

The elevated menu at its restaurant Knossos is overseen by 2 Michelin-starred Athenian chef Nikos Roussos, founder of London eateries Opso and Kima. The menu features traditional Cretan dishes such as locally caught seafood and Lichnarakia, cheese-stuffed pasties that can either be sweet or savoury (I liked the sweet version best).

The hotel’s welcome dinner provided the first taste of Crete’s most famous dishes, from the freshest ceviche I’ve ever tasted to thick scrolls of traditional Cretan pasta with roasted aubergine and soft mizritha cheese.

Next is Gamopilafo, a hunk of lamb, slow-roasted for hours, served over rice baked in the meat’s juices. It’s incredible; deeply savoury, the rice soaks up every flavour.

Our hosts tell us this impressive feasting dish is traditionally served at weddings.

It checks out: the next day on a boat ride along the Mirabello coast, our skipper shares memories of his wedding day, which all revolve around his family feasting on Gamopilafo. I think I want it at my wedding, too.

The elixir of life

Cretans are known for longevity. The nearby island of Icaria is one of the world’s five Blue Zones, areas where people tend to live longer and with fewer diseases.

Alongside almost year-round sunshine and a slow pace of life, part of that is down to their diets, and in particular, antioxidant-rich olive oil.

I’ve done a few wine tastings in my time, but never olive oil. It turns out it’s not dissimilar – you even glug it from wine glasses.

We sip on three locally produced extra virgin olive oils, mainly made with Koroneiki olives, also known as the King of Olives.

The restaurant’s Executive Chef Giannis Mouladakis explains that the greener the oil (made using chlorophyll-rich young olives), the spicier the aftertaste. Golden oils are more subtle in flavour.

The third oil, a faint lime green, is more like whiskey than wine tasting: it caught in the back of my throat and made my eyes water.

I’ll stick to the smooth, less acidic style – I could happily dip a whole loaf into it. It’s good for me!

The following day we get up close and personal with Crete’s olive industry, high in the mountains in the village of Fourni, where local couple Eugenia and George keep horses on their family’s farm.

While I was concerned to learn that my horse’s name means Lightning in Greek, what followed was a gentle walk through gnarled olive groves to quaint stone streets.

In October, the trees are approaching harvest time, groaning with small dark fruit. They look tempting and Lightning agrees, slyly snaffling for a nibble at every opportunity.

I’m given a tin of the farm’s golden olive oil to take home – far superior to any £6 bottle of EVOO you can pick up in the supermarket.

More cheese, please! 

Another reward awaits us in Fourni.

Under a plane tree in the sleepy stone square is Platanos, a family-run taverna that’s as authentically Cretan as it gets.

Here I get the chance to see the cheeses I’d been salivating over all weekend be made: mizritha or Anthotyro, as it’s sometimes known on the island.

Our hosts set up a makeshift kitchen with everything needed for a full-scale cheese factory – a massive cauldron, gas burner, large metal bowls and plastic cylinders.

It turns out these traditional cheeses are made using one of the simplest methods possible. First, they pour sheep and goats’ milk into the vat, followed by lashings of salt and liquid rennet. As it comes to the boil, I have a go at stirring the bubbling liquid. Then suddenly it’s ready, as the curds start to clump together at the top.

These are spooned and tightly squeezed into the cylindrical colanders, ready to be set and matured into a hard cheese. We don’t have to wait to try it – they instantly whip out some they made earlier.

It’s crumbly and tangy, similar to feta, but unmatched in its smooth texture.

The whey, meanwhile, goes back in the pot for a second boiling, where it turns a loose, bright white with the texture of ricotta.

This is mizritha, and it’s delicious: creamy and sweet. I slather it on thick white bread dipped in tomato salad to make something like Dakos, a popular local tomato bruschetta-style dish.

But it’s even better as dessert, drizzled with a little Greek honey and eaten with a spoon.

If you want to eat in the Cretan way, it’s all about sharing. And alongside hearty dishes including meaty orzo pasta, rustic roasted okra and a simple tomato salad (washed down with an eye-watering glass or two of Raki), this turns into one of the loveliest meals I’ve had anywhere in the world.

What to do in Agios Nikolaos

A lively port town, Agios Nikoalos has several sandy and pebble beaches nearby, along with plenty of boutique shops, bars and cafes. The best public beach is Almyros, in the south.

For a change of scenery head to Lake Voulismeni. Set under a dramatic cliff face, this beautiful inlet was once a freshwater lake, so deep locals believed it was bottomless, but it’s now connected to the sea by a small rivulet.

The legend of Greek mythology has it that Voulismeni was the personal swimming hole of the goddess Athena, so I reckon it makes the perfect spot for a solo breakfast after a sunrise swim (the first time I’ve ever made it into the sea before 8AM on holiday).

The most relaxing place to eat here is Zygos Urban Garden – a trendy waterfront cafe.

I take a seat by a tiny wrought iron bridge and watch colourful boats bob in the water over a refreshing Greek frappe and a bowl of fruit and granola, topped with lashings of Greek yoghurt and honey.

The town’s port makes it ideal for boat trips along the craggy Mirabello coast, peppered with narrow coves and azure water.

For history, it’s hard to look past Spinalonga, a medieval fortress turned leper colony made famous by 2005 novel The Island.

Closer by, Agioi Theodoroi is just opposite Ag Nik harbour. The island is a national park, so its only inhabitants are curly-horned goats called Kri-Kri, an endangered breed and a symbol of Crete.

You can see them from one of the island’s stunning hiking trails, or by snorkelling to the wreck of a WWII plane from the beach.

Sophie Laughton was a guest of the InterContinental Crete, an IHG hotel. Rooms start from €235 (£197) per night for two adults, including breakfast.

I’ve lived in London on and off for over a decade, and I’ve never said more than a passing ‘hello’ to my neighbours.

But in Shediac, a small town in New Brunswick, Canada, I experience a sense of community for the first time in years.

I’m at the Shediac Lobster Festival, enjoying fresh seafood for a fraction of UK prices and alien levels of friendliness compared to the interactions I have on the Tube at home. Pulling a chair up to a table for 700 people leads to all sorts of life-affirming conversations. And, if you’re a lobster amateur like me, detailed instructions on how to eat them.

The Lobster Festival has just celebrated its 75th year, which means it’s been around 20 years longer than Glastonbury. Aside from my group, I didn’t notice a single international tourist, and most out-of-towners came from other parts of Canada.

It was a similar story across the region, and I soon discovered I had stumbled upon one of the few places mass tourism has yet to reach.

New Brunswick’s ‘Grand Canyon’

Research before my trip told me that New Brunswick is often referred to as Canada’s ‘drive-through’. Lonely Planet calls it the country’s ‘forgotten’ province, so it’s safe to say my expectations were low.

But once on terra firma, I discovered that this is a place that thankfully does not live up to its name. Nature lovers, behold: lush national parks, beautiful waterfalls, idyllic beaches, and charming country towns.

At Fundy Trail Provincial Park, you’ll get to experience all of these on a 30km cliffside drive. Adult entry to the park costs $12.17 (£6.85) per day.

Walking through towering pine trees at a pit stop, we emerged unexpectedly at what locals call New Brunswick’s Grand Canyon. Officially known as Walton Glen Gorge Falls, it was created by a series of volcanic eruptions but is now covered in a thick blanket of trees.

The world’s highest tides

At Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, in the Bay of Fundy, you can witness the world’s highest tides. Reaching up to 16 metres, they have caused dramatic rock erosions which all have nicknames. Look out for the Jay Leno rock with the inimitable nose and chin.

During low tide, you can walk on the ocean floor and meander in and out of formations that wouldn’t look out of place in Star Trek. It’s best to visit early, before 10.30am if you can.

A two-day entry pass is $15.85 (£8.93) for adults, but I recommend booking one of their informative tours which are $18.23 (£10.26) per person.

We were given a comprehensive tour by our guide Joe, who swapped a career in IT for the great outdoors. The facts were jaw-dropping; the sandstone we were walking on is 350 million years old.

Where to eat and drink in New Brunswick

Two hours south of Hopewell Rocks is Saint John, a port on a volcanic peninsula that has attracted an influx of restaurateurs in recent years. The best way to get a taste of the city’s hotspots is Uncorked Tours, run by Gillian.

The Saint John Beer tour costs $89pp (£50). Crisps are my kryptonite, but never have I eaten any like at Big Tide Brewing, made to order and striking the perfect balance between crisp and fluffy.

We also sampled various vintages, including from local vineyard Magnetic Hill Winery, while sitting in Uncorked Tours’ tasting room in Saint John Market, the oldest continuing farmer’s market in Canada. The wild blueberry is a must-try.

New Brunswick is known for world-class seafood, but if you need a break from prawns and cockles, locals rave about the butter chicken at Indian restaurant Thandi. A generous portion costs $26 (£14.62).

Further inland we reach Moncton, the most populous city in New Brunswick (and also heaving with restaurants). We dined at Gahan House Hub City and stuffed our faces with giant oysters for $3.50 (£1.97) a pop, followed by seafood chowder for $19 (£14.81).

Do yourself a favour and don’t miss Tide & Boar Gastropub. Order the lobster roll, which comes with a side of your choice. At $32 (£18) it was a bargain, considering the roll was stuffed with what looked to be a whole lobster.

Canada’s ‘best destination’

Fed and watered, it was time to explore the unspoiled shores of St Andrews, a seaside resort town with an esteemed reputation.

In 2017, USA Today declared St Andrews to be Canada’s ‘best destination’, beating the likes of Niagara, Banff and Montreal.

Perhaps, what makes St Andrews so special is that it feels like a relic from a bygone era. This view is cemented when we encountered a Gen Z server in a coffee shop who had never heard of Oscar-winner Jennifer Lawrence.

One of its most popular attractions is Kingsbrae Gardens, filled with over 50,000 flowers, plants, ponds, and streams. Tickets cost $19 (£14.81) for adults.

Off the coast of the town, there’s a good chance of spotting whales in the wild. We booked the VIP Zodiac boat tour with Jolly Breeze, which costs $99.00 (£56) during peak season (July 1 – September 15). Tours are limited to 12 people.

The flotation suits looked ridiculous, something between an astronaut’s onesie and a road sweeper’s uniform. But our fashion faux pas was rewarded about 45 minutes into our voyage, when spotted our first minke whale. The species can reach up to 35 feet long.

It’s not just whales you might encounter. Not long after setting sail, we came across an island swarming with seals. Our captain pulled up at a respectful distance to watch them sunbathe. We also spotted a bald eagle perching in a tree and several porpoises, too.

Ruth Lawes was a guest of Atlantic Canada and New Brunswick.

As darkness spreads like a soft blanket across the sky, I step out of Helsinki Central Station and take a deep breath of what has been described as the cleanest air in Europe.

The February chill pricks my cheeks as I admire the elegant streets of the Finnish capital, a city of seasonal restaurants, world-class saunas and art nouveau architecture. There is much to smile about; after all, Finland has been voted the happiest place on Earth seven years in a row.

As a mobility-conscious travel writer, I’ve come to evaluate how this Scandi capital accommodates visitors with accessibility needs. Finland’s status as a beacon of progressive values has been called into question over the past year by its ruling rightwing coalition. Long hospital waits, soaring food prices and rising homelessness are only some of the issues facing Finnish society, just like much of Europe.

But Finland remains streets ahead when it comes to disability inclusion, with the country long touted as a world leader in accessible public spaces — a reputation I was here to examine firsthand.

And I found that Helsinki defies expectations. Part Nordic cool, part artistic haven, this is a city that reveals itself slowly and lingers in your mind, long after you leave.

Getting around Helsinki

Since losing the use of my leg following an illness in 1993, I have worn a full leg brace and walked with crutches.

Helsinki is a mostly flat, pedestrian-friendly city; almost all of the most popular attractions are within walking distance of the city’s top hotels.

But if you feel the need, the tram network is also an excellent and affordable way to explore; unlimited hop-on-hop-off passes cost €10 (£8.30) for 24 hours, or €15 (£12.45) for 48 hours.

Trams are accessible and free to wheelchair users. It is enshrined in Finnish law that disabled people should not be discriminated against because of their disability, so drop pavements and accessible entry points are catered for at the vast majority of shops, hotels and tourist sites.

Any public transport (taxi, tram and train) I made use of was easily accessible for me, but also for anyone with more challenging disabilities.

Where to stay in Helsinki

I’m staying at Sokos Solo Pier 4, a new hotel in the trendy Katajanokka district surrounded by the cobbled Market Square, the imposing Suomenlinna fortress and a smorgasbord of palaces and grandiose cathedrals.

Solo Sokos Pier 4 is new and was designed with accessibility in mind, with eight accessible and adapted rooms plus a fully accessible entrance for wheelchair users. The dining room, roof terrace, lifts and lobby are also accessible, but the hotel’s sauna is not.

Outside on Market Square, the cobbles are certainly a challenge for wheels, but you can navigate around this thanks to pavements on either side of the square.

Just a few minutes walk to downtown Helsinki, this neighbourhood has an island-like feel and has long been the haunt of Finnish luminaries, including Tove Jansson, creator of the beloved Moomins.

Although Finland has a reputation for being expensive, prices are now mostly aligned with what we pay in the UK. Hotels vary depending on quality. My lodgings at the four-star Sokos Solo Pier 4 Hotel start from €148 (£122.86) per night, while standard rooms at the top-rated five-star Hotel Kamp go from €290 (£240.60) a night.

Value can still be found in the Finnish capital, at places like the three-star Omena Hotel Lonnrotinkanu which offers comfortable doubles from €69 (£57.28) per night.

A coffee is a competitive €3 (£2.49) to €4 (£3.32 – cheaper than the UK!) whilst a beer will set you back slightly more, at around €8 (£7.47). Expect to pay somewhere between €40 and €60 for a mid-range evening meal.

Where to eat and drink in Helsinki

Eager to sample local cuisine, I headed for Toppa, a restaurant in a building designed by the prolific architect Alvar Aalto.

The menu brilliantly blends street food with fine-dining. Dishes like grilled octopus with sweet peppers (€16/£13.28), Mapo Szechuan tofu (€16/£13.28) and a sharing dish of Char Sieu pork (€42/£34.87) caused my dinner companions to sigh with contentment.

The terrace captures stunning views of the city skyline,best enjoyed with one of their signature cocktails. It is worth noting that Toppa has received mixed reviews online (3.9 on Google and just 3 stars on Trip Advisor). While some praise its innovative menu, others mention poor service and tiny portion sizes. I can only say that my experience was overwhelmingly positive.

A more intimate setting is Wellamo, a cosy Nordic-themed restaurant on the edge of the upscale Katajanokka neighbourhood.

Menus vary throughout the year to reflect seasonal ingredients. When I visited, four courses came in at €58 (£48.15) while six courses were €68 (£56.45). Highlights were the reindeer steak and burbot with Jerusalem artichoke.

The Happiness Factor

Finland has been named the happiest country in the world seven years running, and my interactions with locals made it easy to see why.

Such heights of contentment could stem from their national love of sauna, an integral part of Finnish culture. A Finn I shared a session with explained why he makes time for a sauna every morning before work.

‘It gets my blood flowing, opens your heart!’ he laughed as he poured water on the coals.

The country’s sauna obsession is real: there are an estimated three million saunas for just five and a half million Finns. That’s nearly half a sauna per person.

At Allas Sea Pool in the heart of Helsinki, I experienced this cultural cornerstone firsthand. For €18 (£14.94), you get two hours of pure relaxation, alternating between a warm sauna overlooking the Suomenlinna islands and a 27° outdoor pool.

The ultimate challenge is a near-freezing plunge pool that you immerse yourself in after a sweat session. Skin tingling, I emerged invigorated and with a better understanding of Finnish addiction to the sauna ritual.

Changing and washing facilities are wheelchair accessible, however the heated and cold pools and lower saunas are not. Wheelchair users would struggle with these aspects. Every sauna in Helsinki has different facilities, so it is important to speak with them ahead of your visit to ensure your needs can be met.

As with many things, Scandinavia was ahead of the curve with wellness.

Therma-tourism – the name for heat-seeking travelling – is on the rise and has been proven to have significant health benefits. From sweltering hot springs to luxurious hammams, heat opens the blood vessels and reduces stress, while cold plunges like the one I tried in Finland boost the immune system and trigger the release of feel-good hormones. It’s easy to understand why its popularity is increasing.

Things to do in Helsinki

Tueratastamo offers a fascinating glimpse into Helsinki’s urban culture.

This former abattoir has been transformed into a vibrant centre of food, art, and music. Despite its industrial past, the complex is now home to food markets from around the world, art galleries, coffee roasteries and live music venues. Its bohemian atmosphere rivals that of larger European capitals like Madrid and Prague. 

The nearby Kallio district, originally a working-class area of small apartments, today attracts an eclectic mix of students and artists. Bars such as Musta Kissa and Bar Molotow keep the neighbourhood alive with live music and entertainment well into the early hours.

Within a few hundred yards of Rautatientori Square, five remarkable galleries await. The Ateneum, particularly close to Finnish hearts, displays works from Paul Cezanne to Edvard Munch. Nearby, the Helsinki Art Museum (HAM) houses over 10,000 artworks.

Two contrasting cathedrals define the city’s skyline: the pristine Lutheran Helsinki Cathedral dominates Senate Square with its brilliant white façade and imposing green dome. In stark contrast, the crimson-bricked Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral sits atop a solid rock base, its gleaming gold onion domes mushrooming into the sky.

Is Helsinki safe?

Helsinki, and Finland in general, is exceptionally safe. Ranked the 11th safest country in the world (compared to the UK at 37th and the US at 131st), Helsinki invites fearless exploration.

While the streets can feel deserted in the winter, common sense is all that’s required.

Matt Dennis was a guest of Matka Travel Fair. He stayed at Sono Sokos Hotels Pier 4 and flew with Finn Air from Heathrow. One-way fares start from £215.

Drifting 1,500ft above Luxor’s lunar-like streets, I knew this hot air balloon ride was an experience that would be hard to beat.

It was calming to look down on the Valley of the Queens and the Temple of Rameses III without the hum of a plane’s engine in my ears, the tranquility interrupted only by the roar of flames as our pilot Mahmoud adjusted our height.

This was my final excursion before flying home after a week-long trip down the River Nile, a trip that felt decades in the making thanks to my lifelong obsession with ancient Egypt.

The caveat to this dream, however, was the fact that I would be staying on a ship.

Before this, the most sailing I had ever done was crossing the English Channel on a school trip to France.

I feared relentless motion sickness, being forced to take part in cringeworthy entertainment, feeling alienated as the youngest person on the ship and being stuck with rubbish vegetarian options.

But it only took a few hours on TUI’s new five-star Al Horeya (meaning freedom) to realise my fears had been misplaced. Dare I say, I might even be a cruise convert.

A welcome revelation

The Al Horeya is a new offering from TUI River Cruises. Sailing for the first time in November, it’s designed for Brits who want to take the guesswork out of exploring the Nile and its historic sites. Flights and excursions are included.

The first part of the Legends of the Nile cruise itinerary which took me by surprise was that we weren’t doing much sailing.

In total, the ship sails for about 74 miles (120km), from the historic city of Luxor to ancient Aswan, with stops at Edfu and Kom Ombo before returning to Luxor again.

We spent most nights docked, and although the two overnight voyages could be noisy, from the engine hum to the clacking sound of passing through the Esna Lock, I didn’t lose much sleep after getting settled into my cabin.

Gone were my fears of being shut up in a dark room with a porthole for a window. Instead, I stayed in a compact but comfortable third-deck cabin with a French balcony.

Though it was a case of luck whether the doors opened onto the river or the dock, more often than not I was able to sit and watch the sun rise over the water while applying sun cream for the day ahead.

The ensuite bathroom, while a bit of a tight squeeze, had a shower with the option of a rainfall head — a great way to unwind after a day of exploring.

Excursions or sunbathing

As an ancient Egypt obsessive, I didn’t want to spend my trip on sun loungers, but there are plenty of people who aren’t as fanatical about Khonsu and Hathor as I am.

Each Al Horeya sailing includes two excursions – the Temple of Horus at Edfu, and the Kom Ombo Temple – and they’re both worth going along to.

The Temple of Horus is incredibly well preserved, offering a snapshot of how it would have looked thousands of years ago, while the Kom Ombo visit after nightfall had a fantastic atmosphere. Hardly anyone was there, which made for great pictures.

If your priority is winter sun, it’s easy to leave the excursions at that and spend the rest of your trip on the sun deck, basking in 20-25°C sun under cloudless blue skies and enjoying the all-inclusive drinks.

But if you want to see more wonders of the ancient world, booking some additional excursions is well worth the money.

Each excursion was fascinating and gave us a digestible snapshot of thousands of years of Egyptian history.

On our first full day, we went to the Valley of the Kings and saw the mummy of Tutankhamen in his vacuum-sealed box. It was a real pinch yourself moment, realising this boy – as he was only 19 when he died – has laid in this tomb for more than 3,300 years.

At Abydos Temple we saw the only known carving of Queen Cleopatra, one of Egypt’s best-known historical figures.

There was no trace of her reputation as a femme fatale; instead she shook a set of maracas for Hathor, the goddess of music, love, and beauty.

And in Kom Ombo we saw dozens of mummified crocodiles, which had been incredibly well looked after in life as part of the priests’ worship of Sobek, the crocodile god.

Traditional Egyptian cuisine

Breakfast, lunch and dinner on the Al Horeya offer a mix of traditional Egyptian and Mediterranean dishes alongside classic British fare.

I loved ordering a made-to-order cheese omelette at breakfast, watching the chef cook it and taking notes on his technique.

Combined with lightly-spiced Egyptian fava beans, herb roasted potatoes and cheesy courgette toast, I always had plenty of energy for the day ahead.

Lunches usually featured whole fish or grilled meats, flavourful rice and side dishes including vegetable tagine – rich tomato-based stews – or baba ganoush, an aubergine-based dip served with herby flatbreads.

Felucca, the top-deck restaurant that seats 30 per night, served a five-course menu that gave us a true taste of Egypt, from richly spiced lentil soup to a baked pastry-based dessert not dissimilar from bread and butter pudding.

The magic of Egypt

Despite spending most of my downtime on the ship, it was easy to feel immersed in Egypt’s culture and history during the cruise.

Having two qualified Egyptologists on board at all times meant we could ask questions about all facets of life, from Cleopatra’s reign to modern Egyptian politics.

The British have been fascinated by Egypt for centuries, so much so that explorers brought relics and mummies back with them to live in our museums.

Katy Berzins, head of TUI River Cruises, told me why she thinks our interest in Egyptology has stood the test of time.

‘When it comes to Egyptology and ancient Egypt, human interest piques due to the curiosity of centuries of mystery, grandeur and cultural significance the country has preserved,’ she said.

‘We have curated a range of excursions which allows customers to experience the temples which hold centuries of stories, such as Abu Simbel Temples and Valley of the Kings with ease.

‘For the more cultural experiences, we have immersive excursions that allows customers to discover new and exciting pieces of Egypt such as the Nubian Village Tour.

‘With the richness of history and culture which is so different to the UK, the awe of Egypt alone has made it last the test of time of being a country which has so much to offer.’

I left Egypt feeling awestruck and extremely lucky, but also like I could go back next week.

With so much to see, do, and learn, there are so many possibilities to truly immerse yourself in Egypt’s intriguing history.

And if I am ever lucky enough to visit Egypt again, I’m certain I’ll set sail on a Nile river cruise again.

Katie Boyden was a guest on a seven-night Legends of the Nile sailing on the TUI River Cruises new ship, Al Horeya.

A seven-night cruise starts from £1,799 per person, including flights between London Gatwick or Manchester Airport into Luxor. Food and drink is all-inclusive except between midnight and 8am, when charges apply. TUI Al Horeya sails between November and April each year.

An accusation regularly levelled at me is that when it comes to travelling, I am fashion over function.

True enough, I’ve hiked the ancient Levantine fortress of Masada in patent loafers, and slung a second-hand Louis Vuitton backpack over my shoulder to report on the world’s most remote music festival in Australia’s Red Centre. These were, admittedly, not the wisest of wardrobe choices.

But in an increasingly image-conscious world, surely accessories can be both practical and aesthetically pleasing?

I investigated this theory by taking a pair of viral snowboots on an expedition to chase the Northern Lights across the Arctic Circle (read all about that here). Seen on the social feeds of every Scandi ‘It’ girl worth their salt this winter, these chunky leg warmers are nothing if not a statement. Time to see if they deliver more than a nice Insta post.

The details: Inuikki’s Mountain Boot (the high version). They come in four colours, black, red, a mix of pastel blue and pink, and a mocha shade much like Pantone’s colour of 2025. I went for red.

How much do they cost? £175 for the high style, which is advertised as perfect for cities and snowy landscapes. This price point is in keeping with other brands such as Moon Boot, which sells similar styles from £170.

Where did you wear them? In various locations along the northern coast of Norway, including the most northerly point of mainland Europe (next stop, North Pole). This is Arctic wilderness, where the ground is icy, the snow is many feet deep, and the wind knifes like a dagger.

How cold was it? It went as low as -7C, but my weather app said it felt more like -15C. We arrived in the middle of a winter heatwave; February temperatures in this part of the Arctic usually drop to -20C.

Ok let’s get down to it. How did the boots do? Despite one of my co-travellers rolling out the ‘fashion over function’ remark on their first outing, the boots were surprisingly robust.

Were they warm? Very. I suffer from a circulation condition called Raynaud’s disease, which means my toes freeze and ache most of the year in the UK.

No such pain here; the boots insulated my feet and shins so well, I didn’t feel the cold on Northern Lights watch at 1am on the bow of a ship in the Barents Sea. Tell me that’s not functional.

Comfortable? Yes, if a little heavy to walk in. The boots are clunky, so I wouldn’t advise them for long walks or hiking. Still, I averaged 12,000 steps a day on this trip, and managed that just fine.

How was the tread? On first glance, I worried the rudimentary soles would send me flying across icy ground. My group poked fun at what they described as basic grip, but I never had so much as a near miss, while others around me slid and slipped in what appeared to be more practical walking boots.

Anything else? Like I said, these boots are a statement — they’re also huge, ergo not the easiest footwear to pack. I ended up wearing them to fly back to London to avoid bursting a blood vessel stuffing them into my suitcase.

What’s the verdict? 8/10.

With suitable smugness I am happy to recommend these boots for adventures in snowy, subzero climes.

Yes, they are enormous and take up excessive room in your luggage. They are too heavy for hiking, and will attract attention for being impractical. But they’re warm, comfortable and most importantly, they keep you upright in treacherous terrain. Let’s hear it for accessories that can do both.

Did I check us in? Are we heading to the right airport? Should I research more places for dinner?

Every holiday starts and ends with me glued to my phone, and as a result, holidays have become quite stressful. I constantly worry about being on time and whether everyone will have fun, while rarely switching off from work.

So when I read about architect Nick Troubetzkoy’s tech-free vision for his luxury resort in St Lucia, an island paradise in the eastern Caribbean, it sounded like it could be the antidote for my dying spontaneity.

But could I survive a week away from screens?

The Caribbean’s ‘honeymoon capital’

With dramatic volcanic hillsides and lunar white beaches, St Lucia easily earns its title as the ‘honeymoon capital of the Caribbean’.

And set amidst this rugged landscape is Jade Mountain, an architectural marvel with 29 ‘sanctuaries’ that was recently voted one of the best hotels in the world.

Widely hailed as having the best views in the Caribbean, the mountaintop retreat is unique in that every suite is missing a wall. Bedrooms are partially open-air, with minimalist decor of stone, concrete and tropical hardwood that makes you feel one with the forest around you.

Giving strong vibes of a Bond villain’s lair, each suite has a private infinity pool and three glaring omissions: no telephones, no TVs, no clocks.

Mobiles can be used, but to fully immerse myself in the experience I chose to swap my Android for a blocky 90s-style Nokia (and rely on the expertly-trained butlers) instead.

It turns out that letting go was harder than I thought.

As I settled into the five-star beachfront resort, the initial thrill was quickly replaced by a sense of unfamiliarity. Without my phone to turn to, I felt lost – even a little anxious. How would I check the time? What about directions around the hotel?

But as the days passed, I found myself easing into a new rhythm, one that wasn’t dictated by digital distractions.

I started paying more attention to nature, waking up with natural light every day, and even ditching my eye mask.

With the itinerary organised by the hotel, and all meals included, there wasn’t really anything for me to stress about.

I’ll admit it wasn’t a full detox; I still called and texted friends and family. I also used my phone to take photos, but I resisted the urge to check other apps once I finished snapping pictures.

The Major Domos (butlers) are always available, whether it’s to unpack your suitcase, gently wake you in the morning or bring you a late-night snack.

And by the end of the week, I’d come to understand not just the benefits of unplugging, but also how deeply dependent I am on my devices.

Things to do in St Lucia

St Lucia can be roughly divided into two regions: north and south.

In the north, you will find the bustling capital Castries, as well as the luxurious area of Cap Estate, the town of Gros Islet and the marina of Rodney Bay.

If you are looking for good nightlife, varied dining, shopping and a more modern vibe, the north of St Lucia is for you. Gros Islet’s street party on Fridays, also known as “jump up”, is an unmissable cultural experience that brings together locals and tourists for a night of reggae, soca (a blend of African and East Indian rhythms) and local food.

Tourists visiting other Caribbean islands via ferry or embarking on cruises will also focus on the northern part of the island, as most maritime transport departs from Castries.

The south is home to the Pitons, a UNESCO World Heritage site that’s home to two striking volcanic peaks. This area has a more intimate vibe and is perfect for anyone looking to disconnect and unwind in nature.

Think candle-lit dinners on the beach, healing hot springs and quiet evenings listening to the cicadas sing while you sip on local rum.

Here you’ll also find Soufrière, a top spot for honeymoons and romantic getaways, Choiseul – the ‘craft capital’ – and Vieux Fort, St Lucia’s second-largest town. 

If you are thinking of renting a car, keep in mind that driving in St Lucia can be challenging — it’s not for the faint-hearted.

As someone who rarely gets car sick, the drive from the airport to the resort was nauseating enough for me, so pick your location wisely and bring anti-sickness tablets just in case.

You can discover St Lucia’s natural beauty in all its glory at the Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens (entry is £5.60), visit the world’s only drive-in volcano, La Soufrière (entry is around £12), or go birdwatching on the Maria Islands (tours start at £40).

There’s also a huge selection of boat trips – from snorkelling excursions to romantic catamaran sunset cruises. We were lucky enough to see dolphins.

For a deeper dive into the island’s heritage, consider a plantation tour at one of its historic estates. At Balenbouche, you can visit an 18th-century sugar mill and stroll through the beautiful grounds (£15.50), while Morne Coubaril adds a flavorful twist with chocolate and rum tastings (£27).

While there is something for everyone in St Lucia, the island is the ultimate destination for those looking to unplug.

Mud baths? Check. Scenic waterfalls? Check. Make your own chocolate and eat it? Absolutely.

Martina Andretta was a guest of Jade Mountain (jademountain@jademountain.com) and Anse Chastanet (ansechastanet@ansechastanet.com).

Nightly rates in one of Jade Mountain’s Sky Sanctuaries start from £862 per room on a B&B basis.

Nightly rates at Anse Chastanet start from £504 on a room-only basis (based on 2 travellers).

This article was originally published on 3 January 2025.

Fingertips burning, I can barely hold my phone steady as Arctic wind whips daggers across my cheeks. My thermal vest has dislodged from the waistband of my trousers, exposing naked skin to the biting polar breeze. My nose is running, my toes are aching, and my neck has seized from gazing upwards into the blackness of the night sky.

And then, from the abyss, it appears: a white wisp swirling like script from a calligraphy pen. It twists and twirls in hypnotic dance, stretching this way and that until it spans the snowcapped horizon, bursting forth like a cosmic ballerina pirouetting across the stars. 

There’s no time to wait. Amid the howl of huskies, we bundle into the van, our driver Mili expertly navigating the icy roads until we reach a desolate stretch overlooking a fjord. And there, in the subzero darkness of northern Norway, we are humbled by a solar substorm that has created a breathtaking display of the Northern Lights.

Tears spill down my face as we witness an ethereal kaleidoscope of green and pink billowing out below the moon. I know that it’s not, but it’s the closest thing to magic I’ve ever seen. As a polar princess once said, the cold never bothered me anyway.

A rocky start

I was in Kirkenes, a remote mining town ten minutes drive from the Russian border that was once occupied by Nazi Germany. I had been invited to chase the elusive aurora borealis on a cruise with Hurtigruten, and this was the final stop of the MS Nordkapp’s voyage from Trondheim to the Arctic Circle.

It had been anything but smooth sailing. Our expedition was thrown into chaos from the moment we landed in Oslo, where a storm of 65mph winds cancelled our connecting flight and the first two days of planned excursions.

Matters did not improve once we detoured to the ship. A powerful swell carried us along much of Norway’s west coast, with eight-metre waves churning like a washing machine. Bottles smashed; port stops were skipped; people vomited on their dinner plates. 

We retreated to our cabins. ‘Keep one hand on the ship!’ came the announcement over the tannoy as the contents of my bathroom shelf crashed to the floor. Clinging to the bed like a koala, I willed away the nausea and stared through the porthole; an ominous slate sky offered little hope of even a fleeting glimpse of the Northern Lights. My first trip on a cruise ship was not going to plan.

It will come as a surprise, then, that this misfortune-plagued journey turned out to be one of the best experiences of my life. And even if we hadn’t been treated to a truly spectacular aurora on the final night, I think I would say the same.

The people’s cruise ship

Hurtigruten is a cruise with a difference. Unlike traditional liners, it started life in 1893 as a post and cargo ferry carrying people between remote fishing villages.

Today, passengers are split between international tourists on 12-day packages and locals going about their daily business. You’re just as likely to see a German couple trying reindeer at Nordkapp’s fine dining restaurant as you are a businessman in a Helly Hansen windbreaker, sitting at the bar on his commute between Ornes and Tromso.

The staff are delightful and seem genuinely passionate about showing you the best of Norway. They’re charming, and not in a saccharine ‘have a nice day’ way. Most come from towns dotted along the coast, and many are from families who have worked on Hurtigruten ships for generations.

The food is exquisite and quintessentially Nordic, from Arctic char at the main restaurant, Torget, to brown cheese ice cream at Multe bakery (don’t knock it until you’ve tried it). Since 2015, the ship has also treated guests to Nidelven Bla, a strong Scandinavian blue repeatedly voted the world’s best cheese.

But the crowning glory of Hurtigruten’s culinary offering is Havets Bobler, the world’s first Arctic-aged sparkling wine matured in the depths of a fjord off the north Norwegian coast. The location is kept under lock and key; after fruitless probing, I sat back and enjoyed the fizz.

The Northern Lights promise

Interest in the Northern Lights has soared in the past year, driven by a solar maximum that has caused the most frequent and impressive displays in more than a decade. These cycles take roughly 11 years, which means the best chance of seeing aurora is in the next 12 months — after that, you’ll be waiting until 2036.

This is, of course, huge news for the ‘noctourism’ industry and experts like astronomer Tom Kerss, Hurtigruten’s ‘chief aurora chaser’ who accompanies us on our voyage.

I ask Tom what he thinks is driving interest in the Northern Lights, aside from the bumper sightings the UK and much of Europe were treated to in May and October.

‘I think it’s been a perfect storm,’ he says. ‘The solar maximum definitely piqued people’s interest last year, but I think you’ve also still got that post-Covid afterglow of people looking for experiential travel, combined with Norway as a destination just being really huge right now.’

There’s that, for certain. Norwegian Air launched direct flights between London Gatwick and Harstad-Narvik Airport in Evenes in the Arctic Circle just in time for the peak winter season last year. Lofoten, a stunning chain of islands that offers the Northern Lights in the winter and midnight sun in summer, saw a 15% uptick in visitors from 2022 to 2023.

But I also suspect there’s something in the otherworldliness of the Lights, when our own world feels so bleak.

‘They’re very visual,’ says Tom. ‘Most travel trends are driven by Instagram, and what could be more visually arresting than a bunch of aurora photos?’

The nature of the Northern Lights also means no two photos are ever the same. Each is unique, a rarity in an increasingly oversaturated content space.

‘If you go to a mountain range in Hawaii, or go to see the [hot air] balloons in Cappadocia, everyone’s taking photos of essentially the same thing,’ says Tom. 

‘But with aurora, you’re kind of taking a gamble. You might get the most breathtaking image nobody else ever gets. The Northern Lights have a unique promise, and the promise is that you never know when the best display of your life is going to be. You only know that you don’t want to miss it.’

I tell Tom he should consider a career in PR for his nod to Hurtigruten’s corporate promise, which gives anyone who does not see the Northern Lights on a 12-day voyage another seven-day trip, free of charge.

It’s an attractive pledge. Despite nights spent scouring the sky from the deck of the Nordkapp, it’s not until we are on land in Kirkenes on the final night that we see ‘Lady Aurora’ in all her glory.

From frozen pizza to fine dining

In recent years, the cruise industry has faced a reputational reckoning.

Residents around the world have been rising up against what they see as a scourge on their communities. They fear the floating behemoths pollute their water, damage their local economy and flood their towns with overwhelming crowds.

Destinations such as Amsterdam and Venice have banned cruise ships from anchoring in their historic centres, while Spanish hotspots like Palma have rolled out restrictions.

In Tromso, the Arctic capital on the frontline of northern Norway’s tourism boom, I ask locals how they feel about a rise in cruise passengers.

From shopkeepers, bartenders and tour guides, the answer is resoundingly the same: Hurtigruten is always welcome, other cruise ships are not.

‘Hurtigruten is the lifeblood of our business and so many others,’ says Milivoj Krzanic, head of international sales at the Snow Hotel in Kirkenes.

‘Thirty years ago, guests on the ships were eating frozen pizza, now it’s fine dining. But it will never become a Disneyland cruise, it will always be a postal ship at heart.’

Gambling for magic

Storms and seasickness cast a shadow over the start of our voyage, but if all we had experienced were those 20 minutes of Northern Lights magic, I would have left wishing to go back.

And we saw so much more than that. I would barely be scratching the surface if I told you about the cliffs at Europe’s most northerly point; the Arctic cathedral in Tromso; the king crab safari and songs from the indigenous Sami community that could draw tears from a stone.

This is a place for people with adventure in their hearts. It’s unpredictable, with mercurial weather and the kind of extremes you only find on the frontline of human existence.

But if you’re willing to gamble, you might be rewarded with something that feels like magic.

Alice Murphy was a guest of Hurtigruten, on a condensed version of the 12-day Astronomy Voyage from Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen.

Prices start from £2,675 per person based on two guests sharing a Polar Outside Cabin, inclusive of international flights, full board dining, exclusive astronomy lectures and Wi-Fi.

Flights operate from London Gatwick and return from Bergen, Norway. Optional excursions and drinks packages available.

The UK is home to some downright incredible hotels, with many located in London. There’s The Ritz, Claridge’s, The Savoy, and The Dorchester, to name but a few.

But the capital is also home to one of the world’s best hotels, according to a new travel guide, and it’s one you may not have heard of.

Forbes has named Raffles London at The OWO (Old War Office) as one of the top luxury hotels in the world, alongside The Cadogan.

This isn’t the first accolade The OWO has won — it is often praised for its lavish interiors and suites which can cost up to £1,000 per night.

However, there’s another special feature hidden in the basement.

Tucked beneath the hotel are simple storage rooms. Compared to the opulence that greets you in the foyer, it’s an unassuming space, with white brick walls, dim lighting and dark wooden doors. 

Take a closer look at one of these – specifically the door at the end of the corridor, just before you round the corner – and you’ll see that the plaque on it is a little different from the others. Instead of saying ‘store’, it reads ‘007’. 

This is where you’ll find The Spy Bar, a speakeasy that’s got an impressive history and is potentially the most secretive drinking spot in the UK.

The OWO was once the epicentre of the British government, used as the headquarters for the War Office which today is better known as the Ministry of Defence.

Churchill had an office there, T E Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia) was employed in the building back in 1914, and it was also where you’d find some of the UK’s most classified documents. 

The subterranean storage room, behind the 007 door, once functioned as a high-security vault, containing identity papers and mission reports belonging to MI5 and MI6.

While other rooms along the corridor also served top secret purposes, being used for briefing, debriefing and interrogating spies before and after they went into the ‘field’.

Flash forward to today and secrecy is still paramount behind door number 007, and anyone going inside has to agree to follow a strict rule – no photos.

Photography is banned inside the bar, as a way of ‘honouring the space’, and they’re pretty serious about enforcing this, even going as far as to cover up the camera on guests’ phones. A sticker that reads ‘for your eyes only’ is placed over the camera lens before you enter, and just in case you didn’t quite get the memo, there’s also a large sign to remind you again as you head in. 

Due to the lack of photos available, I didn’t really know what to expect from the bar, but my jaw dropped the moment I stepped inside. 

I doubt anyone has ever made a storage room feel as glamorous and intimate as this one does. It’s all rich maroon hues, shiny mirrored tables, flickering candles, and plush velvet chairs. 

Oh, and did I mention there’s a silver Aston Martin DB5 above the bar? Or at least, half of one. 

The prop car, which has been sliced in half vertically, featured in several James Bond films over the years (although staff didn’t confirm which ones), and is now mounted on the wall, hanging above a vast array of spirits. 

As you head further in, you’ll see the room is divided into two areas; there’s the main bar area with glossy red stools, and several tables for two, and a space out back with booths for bigger groups to chat without disturbing everyone else. 

I sat at a table in the corner of the main bar area, with the best view of the car, and the ability to keep an eye on the comings and goings of everyone here. The five-star hotel is known for having high-end clientele and staff say it wouldn’t be a surprise to see a celebrity swinging by for a drink, drawn in by the exclusivity, the privacy and the impressive menu The Spy Bar offers.

There are two cocktail menus, a regular one with James Bond-inspired tipples, and a vintage cocktail menu containing drinks ranging from £200 to £350 in price.

Keep on flipping through the menu and you’ll spot a spirit that costs an eye-watering £10,000 per shot.

The vintage Macallan Whisky from the 1980s was privately commissioned for Raffles Singapore and there’s only one bottle available for consumers – the bottle at The Spy Bar. No one has bought one of the pricey shots yet, but they are expecting a guest to purchase the entire bottle at some point for a jaw-dropping sum.

While the £10k shots might not be in demand just yet, the vintage cocktails are some of the most popular drinks at the bar, specifically the Vintage Vesper. 

This shaken not stirred beverage is the £350 premium version of their signature drink, made with Gordon’s Dry Gin and Smirnoff Vodka which were bottled in the 1960s and Kina Lillet bottled in 1967.

The regular Vesper Martini is £26, but for those who have money to spend the vintage version is said to be ‘exceptional’, according to the bar’s manager, Sotirios Konomi.

He tells Metro: ‘The Vintage cocktails are pretty popular at the Spy Bar and, more specifically, the Vintage Vesper. Guests are travelling back in time for some exceptional liquid moments and the Spy Bar atmosphere helps a lot for this experience.’

During my visit I stuck to the regular cocktail list, ordering The Writer’s Club (£23) and The Spy Who Loved Me (£24). The former is inspired by a martini, and contains Sipsmith London Dry Gin, Axia Mastiha, Makrut Leaf, White Chocolate, Miso, Gardenia, and Baldoria Orange Wine Vermouth. The cocktail pays homage to Raffles’ history as a literary hub and was quite possibly the strongest – and driest – drink I’ve ever had in my life. Essentially, if you like the taste of pure alcohol, this one’s for you. 

If you prefer not to grimace each time you take a sip of your drink, and have a sweet tooth, you’d probably be better off with The Spy Who Loved Me, which is like a cherry negroni, composed of Belvedere Vodka, Cocchi Rosa and cherry yoghurt, meadowsweet and Campari.

Along with the mixed nuts and olives on the table, as well as an order of popcorn chicken from the snacks menu, the drinks went down a treat. 

Without a doubt, this is the coolest place I’ve ever been to for a drink and it’s definitely where I’ll be heading from now on for special occasions, or when I’m looking to really impress someone with a hidden gem spot in the city.

If I’ve inspired you to check it out, it’s worth noting that you can’t just rock up at the hotel and expect to be let in for a drink. You have to make a booking.

But how you go about securing a booking is a little more of a mystery.

The OWO website currently claims the bar is only for hotel residents and guests, but The Spy Bar’s Maître d’ assured me this isn’t the case and everyone is welcome.

On the way out he slipped me a card containing an ‘undercover’ message and email address to contact when I wanted to visit again. It all felt very cloak and dagger, which just added to the experience. You definitely leave feeling like a VIP, which is great fun.

If you spend a little while searching the hotel website, eventually you’ll find a phone number and generic booking email that might get you in – these details are very different to the details on the card though.

I could tell you what the message said, but then I’d have to kill you…

This article was first published on January 17, 2025.

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Some say jet lag is a state of mind, while others spend their long-haul holidays falling asleep at noon and asking: ‘But what time is it, really?’

It’s the only downside to seeing the world, and travellers have spent decades trying to avoid it.

Some drink copious cups of coffee, or eat lots of bananas (yes, really, it’s the potassium). Others take sleeping pills, but these can be addictive, and have varying degrees of success.

So, when I flew more than 10,500 miles from London to Sydney, I assumed I would have to accept my fate – that is, until an Australian colleague recommended the app Timeshifter and, spoiler, it changed my life.

How does the Timeshifter app work?

Timeshifter is the brainchild of tech entrepreneurs Mickey Beyer-Clausen and Jacob Ravn, along with Dr Steven W Lockley, an expert in circadian rhythms who supports NASA astronaut training.

Your circadian rhythm is better known as your body clock, and when you cross time zones, this gets disrupted.

According to Timeshifter, the app combines ‘the only elements shown to reset the circadian clock’, (light-dark exposure and melatonin) along with those that ‘alleviate the symptoms’ (light, melatonin, caffeine and naps).

The concept is simple. You put in your flight date and time, and a schedule is created for you. Your first plan is free, then it’s $9.99 (£7.97) per plan or
a $24.99 (£19.94) subscription which offers unlimited plans for a year.

You’ll be told when to sleep, take naps, get (or avoid) light exposure, and when to drink coffee or chug supplements.

Given that melatonin is prescription-only in the UK, I wouldn’t be taking it – but you can give Timeshifter this info, and your schedule is adjusted accordingly.

Putting Timeshifter to the test

I was due to fly at 9am on a Sunday, so I was surprised when my schedule started on the Friday before. I was instructed to be up by 7am, and go to bed before 10pm.

On the Saturday, those timings shifted by an hour, so I was up at 6am (on a Saturday), and in bed for 9pm.

Then came the day of my flight, where I had to set my alarm for 3am. This felt cruel, given I didn’t need to leave for the airport until 5.30am.

Timeshifter also told me to get straight on the caffeine, which at this point was pretty much a necessity.

I also needed light, but, erm, it was dark. So I switched on every light in my flat and hoped that would have the same effect.

Things started to get a bit weird when I boarded my flight at 9am. By this time I wasn’t allowed to have caffeine, while my fellow passengers were on the espressos.

However, I trusted the process, and when it was time to go to sleep at 3pm London time, I actually felt pretty snoozy.

Timeshifter told me to sleep for an hour before arriving in Doha at 4pm UK time, or 6pm local time. I should have slept at the airport, but the anxious part of me was too scared about missing the connecting flight, so I stayed awake.

Two hours later (8pm in Doha) I was on another plane (it would be a mammoth 14-hour journey), and it was time to go back to sleep. Again, this is easier said than done; I had some food and watched an hour or so of Ocean’s 11 before finally dozing off.

I’ll admit, the military schedule adds a level of pressure that doesn’t make relaxing easy. But, I stuck to it as best I could, and was only ever about an hour or so out of my plan.

I had to set an alarm to wake up after six hours, and, as under orders from Timeshifter, start pounding the caffeine. Again, this felt a bit counter-intuitive. It was the dead of night in both the UK and Doha, and almost all my fellow passengers were sleeping.

Still, I did as I was told, and watched Oceans 8 and 12 before my final scheduled nap six hours later (8am in Doha). By this stage, I honestly had no idea what time it was, so I was grateful to have Timeshifter making decisions for me.

After an hour, I was waking as the plane started to descend, and it was 5pm in Sydney. And, somehow, I felt… fine?

Emerging from a 14-hour flight, I was definitely giving Andy Dufresne as he escaped from Shawshank. But while I might have had cabin fever, and a crick in my neck, I genuinely wasn’t tired.

At the hotel, I ate dinner without falling asleep in my pasta, and then, it was time for bed.

As we walked back to our hotel rooms, my friends commented that they were wide awake, given it was morning back in the UK, but I was more than ready for lights out.

How did I sleep? Like a log.

The following morning, my fellow travellers commented on their eventful nights. One even got up at 3am, and took a ferry around Sydney Harbour at sunrise. Meanwhile, I was sleeping soundly.

While others spent the next few days groaning and popping sleeping pills, I was feeling pretty smug about my Timeshifter experience.

Since then, I’ve been raving about it anyone that will listen. If you’re travelling long haul, I can’t recommend it enough.

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The Pride march is perfectly silent as the beautiful chaos of India erupts around us – the beeps of speeding tuk tuks, the calls of street vendors selling pav bhaji and panipuri, the playful barks of street dogs weaving between the crowds. Mumbai is as noisy as ever, but the people in the parade walk without a sound.

This year, I’m on a journey to visit Pride events across the world, and after skiing a rainbow flag down the icy slopes of Whistler, I hopped on a flight to defrost in the fiery heat of the ‘City of Dreams’.

Pride is usually loud – dancing, music, defiant chants of resistance.

But as I walk in step with India’s vibrant queer community, I’m struck by the power of taking this moment to quietly reflect.

‘We observe silence to express our gratitude to all the people – all over the world – who have lost their lives while fighting for equal rights,’ Saurabh Bondre, one of the organisers of Mumbai Queer Pride, tells Metro.

It’s a powerful statement, and an important one, because India’s fight for for LGBT+ acceptance has been hard won.

After a long and fraught battle towards equality, India first decriminalised homosexuality in 2009, only for the ruling to be overturned four years later. Queer communities were falsely given the green light to be themselves; their world was shattered when their identities became outlawed once more.

Many were put in dangerous positions, while others had no choice but to go back into the closet. It was a painful five years until homosexuality was decriminalised for a second time in 2018. Hopefully this time, for good.

As one of the only countries in the world to reverse decriminalisation, India’s queer communities stand as a warning to others that LGBT+ rights are never guaranteed.

Here, they are acutely aware of the fragility of their freedom. They are determined to push global equality forward, at a time when minority rights everywhere are increasingly under threat. This year’s official Mumbai Queer Pride slogan serves as a rallying cry: as it says, there is ‘No Going Back’.

Before the march begins, speakers take to the stage to echo this sentiment, calling out the 65 countries that still criminalise queer identities. Russia’s ‘gay propaganda ban’ is lambasted, while the recent dismantling of trans rights in the US draws fury from the crowd. It’s clear they care about queer freedom everywhere.

‘Indian culture is often touched by western cultural shifts,’ transgender filmmaker Rayyan Monkey explains.

‘While there has been progress in terms of inclusion, for instance more sensitive and positive attempts at transgender representation in cinema, the American government’s dismantling of LGBT+ rights is coming through and affecting us here. In the last six months, we’ve seen a significant decline in support.’

It’s something I feel during my time in Mumbai. In many circles, it’s evident that the LGBT+ community is still seen as culturally taboo.

The night before Pride, I meet a local and his husband at the hotel bar. They were married in Germany, and live an open life overseas, but when they return to India they keep their relationship private.

‘We can’t go to the march,’ they tell me. ‘We can’t be seen there. We have to be discreet.’

The idea of masking our identities is nothing new. Research from Booking.com shows 41% of LGBTQ+ travellers have created an alter-ego to safely navigate different environments, and this seems to be the reality for many living in India.

It is all the more meaningful, then, to see thousands of people show up on the streets of Mumbai. They haven’t come in plain clothes either, they’ve dressed up, ready to make a statement.

Traditional South Asian clothing is worn with gender non-conformity; some wear chandras – a crescent moon-shaped bindi that represents femininity – while others don saris, lehengas, and rainbow turbans.

Lesbian content creators Nick and Sayantika stand out amongst the crowd in feathered corsets. They share their relationship online, and they think it’s also important to bring visibility to the streets.

‘Growing up in India, we didn’t get to see couples who looked like us. Not at home, in the media, or anywhere,’ Sayantika says.

‘That made it so much harder for us to come out because we couldn’t envision what a queer life would look like.

‘Now, as out and proud adults, we are trying to change that by creating that visible representation both online and in real life. The clothes we wear at pride are more than just clothes, because when these rainbow clothes come out of our closet, it encourages others to come out of the closet too.’

It’s easy to forget, but this is exactly why Pride matters.

The parade comes to a gentle stop atop a busy bridge in the heart of the city. The time for silence is over. We take one final pause to remember the lives of those lost, and then we brace to begin the celebrations they gave us the right to have.

Drummers gather at the front of the parade, hands inked with henna and faces adorned with gems as they prepare to sound in unison.

The first beat breaks the silence. Suspense as we wait for the second. By the third, the waiting crowd has burst into the type of joyous celebration one can only experience in India.

Trans pride flags fly as the crowd comes alive, a thousand hands signing mudras in synchronicity, love and togetherness spilling out across blissful faces as they dance in the afternoon sun. For a moment, it feels like all of Mumbai stops to turn in our direction, and I like to think it makes a difference. It’s hard to ignore this moment of unanimous joy.

India’s queer community is a much-needed reminder that progress isn’t always linear. These people have fought and lost, only to come back and fight again.

Their journey has been difficult, and yet they are here, louder and prouder than ever. In a world where LGBT+ rights are constantly under threat, Mumbai sends a message that can’t be ignored.

We will not be silenced.

We will not be erased.

And we will never, ever, go back.

Cloaked by a ceiling of rugs and tapestries, I jostle through smoky alleyways flanked by puffy white chickens clucking in their cages. The atmosphere is electric. It can be nowhere on Earth but Morocco.

I’m winding my way through the maze-like souk of El Jadida, a chaotic but authentic Moroccan port city that’s yet to be invaded by the tourists that swarm Marrakesh.

Built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, El Jadida – sometimes nicknamed ‘the Hamptons of Morocco’ – is now a multicultural metropolis about a 90-minute drive from the iconic ‘white city’ of Casablanca.

My base for exploring this UNESCO-listed treasure was the five-star Mazagan Beach & Golf Resort, a luxurious hotel on the Atlantic coast that boasts 7km of private beach and lavish suites dotted around a swimming pool.

It has all the hallmarks of an outrageously expensive resort, at odds with the insultingly cheap street food just a 25-minute drive away in the city.

But in reality, this hotel (and others like it) is remarkably cheap. In low season, which counterintuitively runs from late May to September when temperatures climb to 50C, rooms start at just £126 per night.

And, as the journey involves a three-hour flight followed by a drive from Casablanca, you could argue that it’s both cheaper and less stressful than a summer getaway to the Greek islands. One-way tickets to Casablanca start from £63.

This is exactly what you’ll find if you decide to check in.

A rejuvenating spa

After a busy day of haggling and standing on lookout towers admiring the ocean, the only remedy is a trip to the spa.

Mazagan has an excellent hammam, where I got the best massage I’ve ever had (and I’ve had a few).

Adrenaline-boosting activities

There’s plenty of ways to work up a sweat on the hotel’s 250-hectare estate, from horse riding and quad biking to an 18-hole golf course designed by champion golfer Gary Player.

As a child, I had a handful of horse riding lessons and wanted to reignite my love for it, so I head to the stables. What followed was a stunning hour-long ride along the shore, with my cheeky steed Joe. I fought the urge to recreate the vision of galloping down the beach, waves breaking around the horse’s hooves.

Later, I tried my luck on a quad bike, cutting a course through golden sand. It’ll now be something I add to my activity list wherever I go and it’s the perfect option for a family with an adventurous side.

I even had a go on the golf course. Known as the most difficult in North Africa, it has sweeping views of the Atlantic, and stretches across 6,885 metres, making it one of the longest courses in the Morocco.

Suffice to say, I’ll never tut at Rory McIlroy for missing a put again.

With so many activities on offer – and at no extra cost – it’s easy to try something new and fall in love with it. Think of it as a place of beginnings.

World-class surf and turf

The culinary highlight of Mazagan’s 15 bars and restaurants is unquestionably its seafood bistro, Sel de Mar. The menu’s north star was a stunning oyster aperitif and salmon ceviche with ginger and mango.

The beachside Buddha Bar offers a more relaxed setting, where you can order pan-Asian cuisine with an extensive selection of sushi and beautifully cooked steak. Mazi, by the pool, serves tasty Greek mezze.

If you’re gluten-free like I am, Morocco isn’t going to provide you with an abundance of options. But at this hotel, the ones you do have are delicious.

Exploring El Jadida

The Mazagan’s five-star treatment extends beyond the hotel gates. A guided excursion around the medina (old town) is just one of the experiences offered by the resort, but it’s one you don’t want to miss.

The ancient streets are a smorgasbord for history and architecture lovers, with a Portuguese cistern and Gothic church dominating the skyline.

El Jadida’s medina is said to be the most European-looking in Morocco. No visit is complete without a walk along the city walls, which capture panoramic views of the ocean.

A short drive from the old town is Sidi Bouafi Lighthouse, a prime spot for photography and bird-watching.

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