I’d been digging into a pasta dish when people around me began gasping and rushing towards the exit. When people do this on a cruise ship, you start to worry.
I hadn’t been paying much attention to the view as it was dark outside, and when you’re in the middle of the ocean at night, there’s really not too much to see — but while I wasn’t looking, a 200,000-year-old volcano had erupted.
We’d caught a glimpse of Mount Stromboli about an hour earlier, after a sailing through the Messina Strait, a narrow passage between Sicily and Southern Italy.
The volcano was a sight to behold, but everything had been calm.
Fast forward 60 minutes and as we’d looped back around the volcano, aka the ‘lighthouse of the Mediterranean’ and the situation had got rather more exciting.
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Bright orange lava was now flowing, and every few minutes a cascade of fiery rocks spurted from the top, like a contained firework display.
I rushed with the crowds to the top deck of Holland America’s MS Oosterdam to get a better look. Awe-inspiring and ominous at the same time, the lava cast a sinister red glow over the homes on the island below.
I watched until Stromboli was a glimmering speck in the distance. This moment was just one of the many during my seven-day voyage that challenged everything I thought I knew about cruises.
Life on board Holland America’s MS Oosterdam
When you first board a cruise ship, there’s a mandatory safety video which includes information about the emergency alarm. I was not, however, expecting to hear it later that night, at 2am.
As a first time cruiser, I was feeling pretty nervous. Thankfully, Captain Kevin quickly assured us it was a false alarm — and I was soon fast asleep once more.
The rocky start did little to convince me that my week on a Mediterranean Marvels cruise from Athens to Civitavecchia in Italy, would be smooth sailing.
In particular, the idea of ‘sea days’, stuck on the ship with nowhere to go made me feel claustrophobic. But it immediately became clear I needn’t have worried — cruise ships are ginormous.
Oosterdam has 10 different floors for public access, with several lower levels that are off limits to guests (rumour has it this is where you’ll find the holding cell for those who get themselves in trouble during the cruise, and the on board morgue).
There are two swimming pools and two hot tubs, several bars and restaurants, a gym and spa, a library, a taco bar, a theatre, casino, shops, and a game room for kids. Food and drinks are available around the clock, and there’s always some kind of event or activity taking place.
Even my room was bigger than I’d expected it to be. I’d naively had visions of a pokey cabin, with a tiny round porthole. But the room itself looked like most standard hotel rooms. There was a double bed, a two-seater sofa and desk, and an en-suite bathroom with a tub. I also had a balcony, boasting spectacular ocean views.
Bucket-list moments on Holland America’s MS Oosterdam
We stopped at some of Europe’s most popular destinations over the week-long trip, from Dubrovnik to Kotor, Corfu and Naples, but surprisingly, my favourite experiences all happened at sea.
Not only did I witness Mount Stromboli erupt, but as we cruised along the Adriatic, heading away from Montenegro, I got to enjoy another bucket-list moment.
After a long day exploring Kotor’s Old Town in baking 30C weather, I was in my room when I saw a flash of something out the corner of my eye.
Pausing by the balcony, seconds later a small dolphin jumped out of the water, arching out of the sea in a movement that I’d seen so many times on TV before, but never in real life.
It was followed by another one, and then another and suddenly I’d lost count of how many dolphins there were. I was squealing like a kid as I watched the creatures play in the wake of the ship.
As a foodie, there was also plenty of delicious treats to be found on Oosterdam.
I was thrilled to try the Morimoto by Sea pop-up restaurant on board in the Pinnacle Grill. This is an experience that happens at least once per trip on Holland America cruises and brings innovative dishes by the Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto, straight to your plate.
I’m still thinking about the maple candied bacon. It was served with the strips pegged to a tiny rail, so they hung down, like clothes in a wardrobe. I’ve never had anything like it.
Can organised fun on cruise ships actually be fun?
Perhaps one of the biggest surprises of the entire cruise was realising just how great ‘organised fun’ on board can actually can be.
I’m a massive introvert, so not usually one to volunteer for team activities, but on the days we were at sea, I quickly came to realise that it was best to really ‘commit to the bit’.
I tried my hand at line-dancing (which featured more Justin Timberlake music than Jason Aldean), joined in with a bar crawl that involved a lot of twerking, mortifying games, and far too many shots, as well as playing a Mr & Mrs style couples quiz that proved my husband and I are definitely meant to be (duh).
Speaking of my husband, he celebrated his 32nd birthday during the cruise and the Oosterdam staff went above and beyond to make it special.
Colourful balloons were tied to our stateroom door, a bottle of prosecco and chocolate treats greeted us on the table inside and the two wonderful stewards assigned to our floor created the most whimsical display on our bed out of towels – folding the white fabric to create monkeys and a three-tier birthday cake.
We were also served an actual birthday cake: a dreamy chocolate dessert.
Everyone in the restaurant sang happy birthday, before we rounded off the meal with a walk around the promenade deck, enjoying the moment and taking in our unique surroundings.
Is cruising… cool?
Holland America’s Oosterdam completely challenged what I thought I knew about cruises.
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Would I go on another cruise in the future? Absolutely, yes.
There are is one caveat though. I’d look for an adults-only voyage, if only so I could swim in a pool where children weren’t shrieking and doing cannonballs 24/7.
If you’ve been tempted to go on a cruise, book it. You’ll eat more food than you’ve ever had in your life, try some weird and wonderful activities, meet people from all walks of life, and make incredible memories. And really, what more could you ask for from a holiday?
Everything you need to know about a Holland America cruise
Before you get sail
The cruise departs from Athens. Direct flights from London Heathrow currently start from £135 according to SkyScanner.
The trip ended in Civitavecchia, a port 37 miles from Rome. Holland America arranges coaches to help passengers get where they need to go from here.
I spent a few nights at the wonderful Casa Monti hotel, just a short walk from the Colosseum. Flights from Rome Fiumicino Airport to Heathrow start from £93 per person with British Airways.
How much does the seven-day Mediterranean Marvels cruise cost?
Holland America fares start from £1,099 per person for an inside cabin, £1,249 for an ocean-view room, and £1,499 for a verandah.
Prices cover all taxes and fees, as well as meals on board in the Main Dining Room, Lido Market, Dive In (fast food hatch), and via Room Service. Unlimited coffee, tea and lemonade are also included.
Beverage packages and specialty dining in places like the Morimoto pop-up come at an additional cost and you also have to pay for internet access at sea.
There’s a daily crew appreciation charge (gratuity) fee added to guests’ accounts each day. This is charged at $17 per guest for non-suite staterooms and $19 for guests in suites. The amount is adjustable at your discretion.
Any of the costs you incur on the ship are charged to your room key – which you link a credit card to. You won’t need any cash.
Shore excursions
Shore excursions, such as tours, boat trips and visits to places like Pompeii can be booked at additional costs through Holland America.
My advice? Avoid walking tours of Old Towns and any excursion that requires you to get on a minibus, they’re not worth it.
Dress codes
Pay attention to any suggested dress codes for activities on the ship, especially themed parties. The penultimate night of the cruise there was an orange party, which saw guests don something orange – from gowns to feather boas. The same goes for the ‘dressy nights’ on board. People go all out for those, so pack your finest threads, it’s all part of the fun.
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